We are on our way back from Krakow, after a long weekend. Krakow is special to me- it is probably where I initially found my interest of Poland. It is a very European looking city, that went largely undamaged by World War II, the only big city in Poland to be saved. Warsaw, Gdansk, Poznan and Lodz were basically rubble after either the Nazi’s or Red Army finished with them. Krakow is the second biggest city in Poland.
I loved this city, so it was the first one I chose to show my family. In addition to Krakow, the Auschwitz site is only about an hour or so away.
We took the night train on Wednesday. My kids had never been on a train, and I had never been on a sleeper car. So it was an experience for all of us. We were in a six by six compartment (as usual for European trains)- but there were bunks instead of seats. Two columns of three bunks. It was kind of like a rolling prison cell. That said- it was not bad and we arrived in Krakow pretty well rested. Gdasnk is at the very northern part of Poland and Krakow is near its southern border- so it is quite a distance.
We arrived at a beautiful apartment in the Kazimierz District of Krakow. Kazimierz is the also known as the Jewish Quarter. This was the part of town where the Jews lived for centuries, until WWII. For those of you who are Schindler’s Lists fans, his movie takes place in Kazimierz (The actual Schindler Factory is still just over the river), and Spielberg filmed most of his movie in this neighborhood. According to a plaque near our apartment, 65,000 Jews from that neighborhood perished in the Holocaust. Those who escaped never returned. So now Kazimierz really only has a handful of Jews still living there.

We spent the first day at Wawel- the historic Castle of the Kings of Poland as well as the site of the Krakow Cathedral. The Cathedral was the home of Cardinal Karol Wojtyla, when he was elected Pope (better known as John Paul II). In fact, John Paul II spent most of his adult life in Krakow before moving to the Vatican. This is where is mother, father and brother are buried. Lisa does a great job discussing our day at Wawel in her
blog so I won’t repeat it.

I spent a great day in 2008 going through Wawel, but not knowing much Polish history. Now that I have spent the last year reading about these kings and important people, it meant even more. Of course, having my family with me was even better. Lisa always makes fun of me that I always move a slow pace, unless there is a old church or historical monument ahead. So, I was leading the pack all weekend.
Day two we planned to visit Auschwitz. Again, I had been there before- but wanted my family to see (a better word is “experience”) it. Auschwitz is just one of those places everyone should try to see once in their life. Again, Lisa does a nice job on her
blog describing what it is like on her first visit so I will let you read hers. I still have my journal from when I first went to Auschwitz.
Two things always strike me about Auschwitz.
You would think standing inside an actual gas chamber (not recreated- but a real former, functioning gas chamber) and stand where tens of thousands of people stood, naked and waiting for the water to turn on, would be the most striking thing. Or the different torture chambers or the “death wall” (where executions by gun or hanging took place). We all know the stories of Auschwitz- where 1.1 million people (mostly Jews) were murdered at Auschwitz. I must admit that such large number of people is almost impossible to get my mind around. You (or at least I) can’t even visualize or conceptualize 1.1 million people or its brutality.
But what gets me are the rooms of all the personal items brought and left by the victims. Thousands of toothbrushes, shoes, pots, pans, suitcases with names and home addressees on them. This is what really brings that 1.1 million group down to a personal level. Each of these was an individual. Just to show the indifference- they have an entire display of just small childrens' shoes. These thousands of shoes probably came from children from infant to five years old.
The second thing that always strikes me about Auschwitz is the efficiency. Think about what it took to systematically kill and dispose of 1.1 million people; in only about 20 months. The process was set up as well as any assembly factory that you can imagine. You honestly had some of the best engineering, logistics and organizational processes employed for this horrific process. If it were not for the ungodly subject of the process- one might even study its efficiency.
The last part of the tour is always a piece of irony. When most of the Nazi leaders were tied and then hung at Nuremberg- the former Commandant of Auschwitz (Rouldolf Hese) was tried, but brought back to Auschwitz to be hung, where he had hung so many prisoners. His gallow is still there, right where they use to do prisoner's roll call each morning.
There are about nine Fulbright Professors and some students in Poland this year. We are scattered all over the country. One is living in Krakow and one is stationed at a University an hour away. As we decided to come down this weekend, the other two Professors (one who has a very nice family) met several times for meals. One is an Art History Professor and one is a Historian (he is the one with the young family).
We had all spent quite a bit of time with each other during our 10 day orientation in Poznan. So we were glad to spend time with each other as we are all in similar situations. We had great evenings with each of them. On the last evening, one of other Fulbrigthers (she teaches English to non-English speakers) joined us. We all had a great time comparing our changed lives and what is still ahead of us.
The final full day, I had planned to show my family the Market Square. Again, this was one of my favorite areas. It is a big open European-style square (about 800 years old) with shops, merchants in kiosks, restaurants, churches, museums, protesters, etc. My last time in Krakow- I would spend hours at cafes drinking coffee or beer (sometimes both if I stayed long enough) and just watched all the activity. Unfortunately this is where my plans took a turn. It was about 43 degrees (not too bad)- but then started to rain (a chilly rain). Once we got wet, we were cold and miserable (and cranky). We saw (quickly) a few things- but everyone basically wanted to go back to the apartment.
On Sunday morning we left our apartment, went to a mass and back on the noon train home. It is the express train- which means it will only take 9 hours (instead of 11) to get home. Our big event on the train was with our tickets.
I purchased the train tickets beforehand on the internet. They do not stamp your ticket until you are well into the journey. The train conductor came by to stamp our ticket and informs me I have the wrong type of ticket for our children. All children get a discount to ride. However, (according to him)- I purchased tickets just for Polish students (who get a 37% discount) instead of ones for non-Polish students who get a 34% discount. (which may or may not be true). Anyway, he informed me ALL my tickets were invalid (including the two I purchased at full price for Lisa and I, because they were all purchased together). So instead of wanting the additional 3% ticket difference for the four children- he wanted me to purchase six brand new full priced tickets (about $200). Without these new tickets we would have to get off at the next stop (which would leave us eight hours from our house). I argued fiercely, (I was willing to pay the small 3% difference; which would amount to about $10 total- but not buy new tickets). He got a supervisor, who also insisted I purchase six new full priced tickets. They both said I could get a full refund for the tickets I purchased on the internet when I got to my train station in Gdansk (I am getting smarter than that with Polish bureaucracy- never believe when they say you can get something done at a different place. Always insist you get it there.). We came to a compromise (more than I should have paid, but a lot less than he originally said). I did get a receipt, for what ever that is worth.
Great first big outing and look forward to many more. Already we experienced more memorable things in a long weekend- then over a several month period at home.