The Hague- Finally a Day off

After three days of the hard labor of attending a conference- I “took a day” to relax and walk the city.

As mentioned in my last few posts- my morning was shockingly interrupted by the news of the Polish President. My Facebook (which now has lots of Polish friends and Fulbrighters) was in a major buzz. I called Lisa to check in with her.

After I found out what I was going to learn for now- I headed into the city.

The Hague is a small city that can easily be seen in a couple of days. I hit city center about noon- so it was lunch time. I ate at this fabulous outdoor cafe that was teaming with tourists. No one seemed to mind it was rather chilly. Now, when I typically travel to sea based communities- I am always in search of fish. First, Lisa does not care much for fish and does not make it at home very often. Second, good fish is hard to find in KC. However, Poland is not known for its beef (of which I am). In fact, sadly McDonalds probably has the best beef. Poland is a pork country. So, even though I am on the sea in Holland- I have been in search of good beef. So, I had a nice steak sandwich. (My first day back in the States will be to Gates for lunch. Lisa wants to go to J. Alexanders for dinner).

I visited both the Old Church and the New Church. The New Church is only 450 years old- hence its name. It is famous for the burial place of the Royal House of Orange. William of Orange, I, II, IV, V, etc. Where is the William III?- actually buried in England at Westminster. He smartly married Queen Mary and became King (they are famously known as William and Mary- England’s only co-rulers). It was ironic, as I had just read some stuff on them and their rule in England.

One thing I am always fascinated with in Holland is their use of bikes. Everyone from the youngest boy to the oldest woman rides bikes as private transportation. Also, interesting is the type of bikes they ride. They are not the modern 24 speed or mountain bikes- but rather bikes we would associate with the 1950s and 1960s; even with wicker and wire baskets in the front. There are many more bikes on the road than cars. Men in suits, women in expensive dresses riding from place to place. You actually have to watch out for bikers more than you do cars.

Here is a typical Holland “parking lot”. 

After seeing my churches- I went to the Mauritshuis a small museum with a few Rembrandts and other Dutch artists. However, the most famous painting in this gallery (by far) is the “Girl with the Pearl Earring” by Vermeer. A book and movie was done about this girl and the painting. Lisa read the book- I did not.








I bought her a print of the “The Girl”. I really do not have much of an art lover’s eye- but I do like the Dutch masters and like seeing their work. I think I like their hats. As mentioned in a way earlier blog- The museum in Gdansk has a nice collection from the Dutch Masters including a Rembrandt and Vermeer.

Next to the Mauritshuis is the Parliament Building. Again, it is quite old and ornate- but still active. That said- I have yet to find a Parliament building that rivals the one in Budapest. I walked around this Renaissance era complex and soaked in the history. It sits right on a canal (which Holland has hundreds of them and is part of its charm).

The evening ended with another steak, as I am back to Poland.

This week should be interesting with events. There is a national mourning called for seven days.

The Hague

Hello, I am in The Hague in Holland (Netherlands) for a few days. I had meant to get this out yesterday- but I pushed out my unplanned blog on the President of the Republic of Poland's death instead.

I left on Wednesday morning for a three day conference on European Health Policy. It took two taxis, two planes, and one train trip to get here- but I made it. Only after all those journeys, and I was two miles from my hotel did my phone ring. It was Lisa telling me she had an allergic reaction to something, her tongue was swollen and had moderate difficulty breathing. Our neighbors were taking her to the ER. Talk about feeling helpless.... If you have not read about her adventure-

http://anamericanhouseholdinpoland.blogspot.com/2010/04/unexpected-medical-tourism.html

Thank God all was ok and at worse, she got a shot in “the ass,” and a nice look at the Polish health care system. And thank God for Charles, Basia and Mariusz, our neighbors and landlords!

With that good news, I was able to get back to my business.

This is my second trip to Holland /Netherlands (I am never sure what to call it) in less than a year. Last May, I was in Rotterdam and Amsterdam. Now I am at The Hague (the capital “T” in The is part of the name; like The Ohio State). Here, it is called Den Hagg. It is the seat of government. Queen Beatrix of the Netherlands lives and works in The Hague. The Hague is the second UN city after New York.

Holland and Belgium are quickly becoming one of my favorite parts of Europe. Unlike Poland which is huge- you can travel from city to city and back and forth between the two countries in an hour or less. Maybe this a good place for my next sabbatical..... I am sure Lisa would love to work on her Dutch. But first, I have to get her on another international flight. I think if I can find Scottie and have her beamed between the US and EU, I might have better luck with getting her on more of these trips.

Now Holland is an interesting place. Rotterdam is a beautiful sea port (one of the deepest in the world). Those gigantic ocean ships navigate the waters and dock here. Last spring I spent a day on a tour boat just floating around this amazing sea port and looking at the size of these ships. (Many of them are even too wide to fit through the Panama canal). Amsterdam of course, is great, too. The home of Heineken, over-the-counter marijuana shops (called Coffee Houses), and open prostitution (The Red Light District). For those who like their vices- Amsterdam is a mecca.

Now, just when you think Holland is a permanent frat party- you go 30 minutes south from Amsterdam to The Hague. The Hague is the serious place. It is the home to all the international courts that prosecute war criminals, genocidal war lords, and the like (The Peace Palace). “Alleged” criminal leaders from Serbia, Rwanda and West Africa are all here being tried for the systematic murder of tens of thousands of people, and accused of either profiteering or genocide. A little more on that later.

The purpose of this conference I was attending was to bring together health services researchers and policy makers from across Europe and dialogue. Not surprisingly, researchers and politicians rarely understand each other. About 250 of the aforementioned people were here from almost every country in the EU. I was one of three from Poland.

During the course of the discussions- the recent US health care legislation process came up many times (and not in a good way- more in a mocking way). Frankly, as I have traveled Europe this year and people find out I am 1.) an American and 2.) Doing health services research- the people usually pose the same “what in the hell are you people doing over there” question (it is just said more professionally- but their point is clear). I sit and try very hard to explain this ideological debate we have in the US and all sides. I have yet to make a single person understand....

The conference was just ok- but I am glad I went. I met some people, learned a few things. On Friday afternoon I had some time available and decided to see a little bit the of the city.

I was hoping to catch a tour of the Peace Palace at 3pm. I left the conference at 2pm and ran down there. Unfortunately they were booked. The Peace Palace is one of the most famous buildings in The Hague. It is where many of the courts are held for the war criminals. Some of the worst dictators of the second half of the 20th Century have been tried there.

As with most cities- locals tend to have no idea where their most famous sites are located (can you give someone directions to the Truman House in KC or Arthur Bryants?). I had walked to the general area of the Peace Palace- but was lost in the surrounding neighborhoods. I asked a twenty-something man if he knew where it was. He said yes- and told me to keep walking straight (south) and I would see it. After a half mile I was just deeper into neighborhoods- so I asked a forty something women if she knew where the Peace Palace was. She said sure. I had to go around the corner and get on the bus and take it several stops and I would see it (taking me much further east). She was rather confident, but I was not. As she disappeared, I asked a third guy drinking a beer on his patio. Again he said sure, just go back straight (north), turn left and you will see it. For whatever reason the guy with the beer’s answer felt the best- so I basically went back to where I started. I found the Peace Palace about 1 block from the first guy I had ask (but in the opposite direction he told me).

The Peace Palace is a grand old building that has heard some of the worst atrocities committed in the past 50 years. It is part of the United Nations.

I did find it odd that they had a souvenir store in front. I did not know if to expect little Slobodan Milosevic dolls in handcuffs or a commemorative plate of an African war-lord being interrogated.... But it was mostly UN stuff. Radovan Karadic is current the high profile case on trial now. He is another Serbian leader who is accused of leading the massacre of 8,000 men and boys (all the men and boys in the entire city) in Srebrenica in Bosina. Also Charles Taylor (Liberia) is on trial for his atrocities in West Africa during his pursuit of blood diamonds.

In front of the Peace Palace is the ubiquitous WWII memorial. As I have traveled from one side of Europe to another, east, west and north and south- everyone has a memorial to the dead and destruction of the war. It really starts to sink in the scale of this war and devastation. Really, very little of Europe was untouched.




Also, in front of the Peace Palace is a rock garden with a rock representing the 192 countries that participate in the UN court. It is symbol of peace. Of course, the US has one of the bigger rocks....

Finally, The Hague sits right on the sea. I ended my week with a stroll along the boardwalk and ate at a restaurant literally on the beach. As it was about 7pm- I saw the sun setting over the sea. Not a bad way to end a Friday.

More on Saturday and the rest of my trip in the next blog.

A Reflection on the Polish President

I am in Holland for a few days and awoke to the news that the President of our temporary country was killed in the plane crash this morning, along with several cabinet members and dignitaries.

Now, I realize most people could not pick Lech Kaczynski’s name off a list, but he has been involved in Polish Politics for 30 years. He earned his PhD in Gdansk.

He was an advisor to Lech Walesa during the Solidarity strikes and a member Solidarity movement in the 80s and 90s. He was even jailed during martial law for his political activity. He was Vice Chairman of the Solidarity Party and a major player in Lech Walesa’s Presidential cabinet in the early 1990s.

He broke ties with Walesa several years ago. He and his twin brother formed their own political party- Law and Justice in 2001. He was elected President in 2005, and for two years his twin brother served as Prime Minister.

Law and Justice is known as a rather far right wing party with close ties to the Catholic Church. Their approval ratings have been down in the last year or two, and he was not expected to be re-elected in the next Presidential election. These days his main political rival is the current Prime Minister- Donald Tusk (also from Gdansk). Tusk is part of the center-right party, Civic Party. They currently control much of parliament.

Ironically, Kaczynsk and his delegation were on their way to the Katyn Forest on the Russian border. It is the 70th anniversary of one (of many) of Poland’s tragedies.

Most people know that the Nazi’s invaded Poland from the west in 1939. However, Stalin took advantage of the weakened Army and invaded Poland from the east a few weeks later. In April of 1940, the Russian army had gathered 22,000 Poles from the army and political prisoners- marched them into the Katyn forest and executed them by shooting them in the head. Hundreds per day for several weeks. They were all buried in mass graves in the Katyn forest.

Poland has multiple memorials with the simple word “Katyn” inscribed on it. Double ironically, it was the Nazi’s who found the mass graves on their march to Moscow in 1943. At the time, they tried to paint the Russians and Stalin as mass murderers in the press and expressed their disgust. Russia did not even fully claim responsibility for Katyn until the 1990s, and it is still a sore subject between the two countries.

I bring up this history as it is playing a major part in the discussion (and already conspiracies) of the death of President Kaczynski. As both the leaders of Poland and Russia were to be at the Katyn ceremony- it was to represent a softening of relationships between the countries.

To add more controversy- as this occurred on Russian soil- Russia has named Vladamir Putin as chief investigator (he is not all that popular in Poland either). I found these interesting comments by Polish citizens on the internet- http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/8612920.stm

Per the Polish Constitution, the leader of the lower House is now President- and he is required to call a new election to be held within 60 days.

It will be interesting to see the activities that occur over the next week. As far as I know, this is the first modern leader to die/be killed in Poland.

I see Paris, I see France...

About a month ago, our Vice Dean (in Poland) asked if I would be interested in representing the University at a program in Western France- and of course they would pay for my trip. Frankly, I did not even ask what the program was about (nor did I care)- I just accepted on the spot. A few days later I had tickets to Rouen, France in Upper Normandy.

I later learned the program had something to do with international study programs. Again, who cares? I am accompanied by our Vice Dean (and my friend) Magda.

I left Gdansk on Wednesday. But I first had to teach a few classes that morning- then headed to the airport. Gdansk is much like Kansas City when it comes to flying. You pretty much have to fly to a hub from Gdansk, then to your final destination. So I flew from Gdansk about 45 minutes to the large airport in Copenhagen. I ate dinner in Copenhagen while I awaited my flight to Paris.

So, three languages in three hours.

We flew into the large airport in Paris, Charles DeGaulle. It was an great flight. You fly over the city and see the Paris lights. You are able to see the Eiffel Tower from the air, all lit up.

After I deplaned, I felt all professional and dignified when waked off the jetway and a driver was holding a sign “Dr. Gartland”. Life is good!

Rouen is about and hour and a half away from Paris. The driver was also taking another faculty from the airport who is attending the conference. So, I rode in the back with this beautiful faculty from Madrid named Fatima- life is really good! (I still have no idea what this program is about- but all the perks are good).

As I mentioned, Rouen is in upper Normandy. It is probably an hour inland of where the D-Day invasion occurred and the American cemetery is located (Remember Saving Private Ryan?). It is unfortunate, but I will not have time to get out there.

This morning we went to the University for our program. We are at École Supérieure de Commerce de Rouen (Rouen Business School). I finally found what I was doing here. The program has two components to it.

First, it is a place where schools which do student exchanges with each other can meet and network. There are about 135 faculty and administrators here from six continents. I was surprised to see people from US schools here, including some of our US Jesuit schools.

Secondly, while all these faculty and administrators are here- Rouen Business School puts them to work. All students of Rouen Business School have to do an international trip or internship as a part of their degree program. Then they have to write a presentation and present it to us faculty to be judged and graded. Students at the Bachelors and Masters degrees discuss their international experiences and topics. We did two today and have several tomorrow.

These are very stressful to the students, as they are presenting to eight faculty all from different countries, whom they have never met AND presenting in English- which is not their native language. As an example- our student today had to present to a group of faculty from Poland, US, Finland, Spain, and Malaysia.

Finally tonight we went to a traditional French dinner. Pate, wine, cheese, duck, wine, bread, dessert, wine, then expresso.

Probably the thing I found most fascinating about the day was the location of the restaurant. Rouen is a very old city. The building where our restaurant is located is very old too. History occurred right in front of our restaurant’s door. Joan of Arc was burned at the stake right across from the front door. I stood in the very spot (then went in to gorge myself with French food).

I found the description below from on the internet- “Eyewitnesses described the scene of the execution by burning on 30 May 1431. Tied to a tall pillar in the Vieux-Marche in Rouen, she asked two of the clergy, Fr Martin Ladvenu and Fr Isambart de la Pierre, to hold a crucifix before her. A peasant also constructed a small cross which she put in the front of her dress. After she expired, the English raked back the coals to expose her charred body so that no one could claim she had escaped alive, then burned the body twice more to reduce it to ashes and prevent any collection of relics. They cast her remains into the Seine. The executioner, Geoffroy Therage, later stated that he "...greatly feared to be damned."

Lost in Translation

Some of you may recall the 2003 movie by the same title.

Working at a Jesuit based University in the States we are taught always to reflect. Reflect, reflect, reflect.

So as I reflect on my teaching experience in Central Europe- I am learning much about my own strengths and weaknesses as a teacher/professor. Professors are successful in the classroom for many different reasons. My reflections have always led me to the conclusion that my success is based on my approach and how I use examples.

Granted, I have no idea what it is to be like a 20 year old today. Having four kids, a mortgage and my own college experience a generation behind me- it is fair to say I don’t walk in the same shoes as my students. I don’t see the movies they see, and I have never heard of most of the bands on today’s top 40. I also remember when MTV played music. The students don’t.

With the obvious generation gap- I still try very hard to be “current” with my students. Instead of doing cases on semi-conductors, airplanes and widgets- I find companies and products they are familiar with- Beer! Ipods! DVDs, Walmart!, McDonalds!. I have found I can still get the same lesson across, but with using these more familiar products. It is a better experience for them. I know these products and companies well, and tell stories and anecdotes (lots of anecdotes) the students can relate to.

Secondly, is my odd (a little off center) sense of humor. For those who know me well- I need to say no more. Fueling that, there are always a few students in each of my classes who I politely tease, and this also tends goes over well and helps creates a bond. I joke about all things- but hopefully it leads them back to a lesson or point. I interact with students by engaging them in light conversation, and get them to discuss relevant issues- so they don’t realize they are in the middle of a lecture.

And anytime I think I have been talking too much- I always have the fall back question “What do you think”?

I call my teaching style conversational lectures (I am sure educational professionals have a formal name for this- but it what I call it). I still lecture- I just try to keep my students from realizing it.

The above approach has worked for me for years and years.

I was then curious how this style and my normal bag of tricks, examples and humor would translate to a European audience of 20 year olds. Would they get it? Would they get me?

I am pleased to say- the European students have reacted as well- maybe even better than my Rockhurst Students.

I say better, as my style is much rarer over here than in the States. I am rather a novelty here. The EU students are use to much formal- black board style lectures.

They get me, or at least seem to based on their student evaluations. I can still politely tease a few (with brings me in closer), and for the most part my humor and conversational lecture is well understood (and appreciated).

About the only thing I have to do- is change up products. A common example I use with my American students is the competition and difference between Walmart, K-Mart and Target. Every student in the US has been in these stores numerous times and can visualize the example I am giving them. So I use lots of trivia about these stores. Same thing with Beer. In the US I speak of Bud, Coors and Miller. I also like to use Amazon as an example.

Well, the EU (specially Poland) do not have these products or companies (although they have heard of Walmart and know some about it)- the rest they have never heard of. So instead of Walmart, K-Mart and Target- I had to quickly learn about retailers Real, Leclerc and Carrefour. Also, Instead of Bud and Coors- I had to learn about Tyskie, Żywiec and Lech. Also, most here don’t use Amazon (so I have moved to Google). So, other than this minor modification in product and companies- I seem to translate well to the EU students and can use my style.

I keep saying EU students- as my classes are really international. They have strong exchange programs at Politechkia- so besides Poles, I have French, Germans, Czechs, Spaniards, Portuguese, Slovaks, and even someone from Nigeria in my classes. So English is their second, third or fourth language.

Finally, with over 14 years of teaching at the University level (nine years full time)- I have become somewhat proficient at reading faces and body language. I can typically tell when they are bored, confused, need a break, etc. I can then adjust, based on how I am reading the group. I have found the student body language is basically the same between the EU and US students.

There is a BUT to my story.

I also have classes with Chinese students. Politechnika has an ever increasing exchange and recruitment programs with China. They tend to keep them together in a single cohort.

Now, I have had lots of Asian students in the US for years. And for the most part it has never been an issue- as most of these Asian students are already well indoctrinated into the Western world (both language and culture).

My currrent Chinese students are different in two ways. First- most are just learning English (they are far from competent in it). Secondly, most have just recently left China and are new to the Western world.

So given this barrier- my proud teaching style of “conversational lecture” falls absolutely, positively, unquestionably flat.

They don’t get me, they don’t get my style. They don’t get my jokes. I don’t dare tease one of them. Plus they are not familiar with any products, etc.

As they have trouble with language- my fall back question of “What do you think” just gets me a blank stare. Conversations are almost impossible. My anecdotes don’t register.

When teaching this group- I always am reminded of the old Johnny Carson bit during his monologue. When something he said got no response from the audience- he would tap the mic and ask “is this on”? That is exactly how I feel in teaching this group. “Is this on”?, as I get absolutely no reaction to anything I say.

I have yet to even be able to read their body language. They look like they understand the concept I am talking about and ready to move on- so I ask a simple question to verify their knowledge- and I get nothing. But what does this mean? I can’t tell.

Now, lets be fair to these Chinese students. I cannot blame them. They are all bright and friendly. They actually do well with written work. If I give them written instructions or a written question- they can it take home- slowly translate, think about it and carefully write a response. When I allow this- they respond pretty well and do decent work.

But in the classroom itself- they cannot verbally respond to my questions and comments or have regular conversations. But unfortunately, my entire style is based on this form of interaction. So, where it is my success with western students- it is my Achilles heel with these students. I have one of these classes for three hours- it seems like 10. I walk out drained.

I have yet to come up with a solution for this, but keep trying. But it is obvious, I am lost in translation.

A New Term, Diversity and Past, Present, Future

Politechnika started its new term this week. As mentioned in previous blogs- most European schools do not start until October 1 (they think August and September are prime holiday months, so why be in school). So the first term (called Winter) goes from Oct to Feb. Then the second term (called Summer) goes from Mid February to Mid-June.

I basically made a deal with Politechnika when I came over. I would do whatever they wanted- as long as I did it on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday. That leaves me a four day weekend for family travel, conferences and the occasional research project. Why be in a foreign country if you can’t explore and be stuck in a classroom?

Frankly this schedule is not much different than my gig in the States. Professors usually teach three days a week, and use the other two for research and service. Not a hard life- but someone has to do it (but you have to go to college for about 10-12 years for the privilege). So, we are over-educated and under-worked.

Anyway the Summer term started Monday (even though there is still a foot of snow on the ground). I am teaching five classes, which is actually a heavy load for a meek professor. At Rockhurst, I would teach three classes in a term. Here, you normally teach four classes each term. However, I mentioned that Politechnika has a shortage of professors that are comfortable with lecturing in English- so they asked if I would pick up a fifth class. As I love to teach- (and the class fell on one my three designated days) I was happy to oblige.

I am here as a Strategy Management and International Business Fulbright Professor- but I have ended up teaching some Statistics. I have taught Statistics for about 15 years. I use to enjoy it quite a bit- but it has dragged on me in recent years- so I slowed down. Here is the problem with Statistics. I really enjoy performing stats (professionally) and teaching it. The problem is- students do not share the same view of the subject (big surprise). In a typical class of 30, maybe two like it, and the rest really hate it; no matter how innovative and applied you try to make the class. That takes away from the joy of teaching it- when you just get blank stares, and people playing solitaire on the their computer. In recent years, I have moved to occasionally teaching an advanced Stats class. That is better, as it is an elective and you typically only get students who want to be there.

But all professors typically teach a principles class that most students do not like- BUT this is where you tend to spark a career interest in one or two students and it changes their life- that makes up for it. That is really how I became an Economist. When I did my MBA, we had to take a Managerial Economics class. Out of a class of 18- 17 hated it- but I LOVED it. I was an Economist from that moment. I enrolled in a Masters and PhD program the week after MBA graduation.

Anyway, I have ended up teaching quite a bit of Statistics in Poland- as they really need someone on their faculty that can do it in English (we have lots of Statisticians who are great teachers- but in Polish). Of course, I get the same blank Polish stares, as I get blank US stares when teaching it. It is a universal stare and blank expression that transcends all cultures. (Just think back to the classroom scene in Ferris Buller... those are the looks I get when teaching stats).

So this term- out of five classes, I have two Statistics classes. Both are an unusual blend of students. My first Stats class is 100% female (and Polish). I am the only guy in the room. I don’t think that was done on purpose- just the way it worked out. My second Stats class is 95% Chinese- of which many barely speak any English. So, now I will get to add the blank Chinese “stats stare” to list.

My other three classes are on my “favorites“ list; and why I am really here. I have two sections of Strategic Management and one section of International Management.

These classes are always a much different dynamic, here and in the States. The ratio of love to hate is reversed. Typically a couple hate these classes and the rest enjoy them. That changes the classroom dynamic SO much. It also makes teaching it so much more enjoyable, when the students are engaged.

The Strategy Management classes are pretty typical with mostly Poles and some students from other parts of Europe. In fact, I had several of these students last term for Stats- so they know me and I know them.

The International Management will be also be different. This requires more prep for me. Although I teach a great deal of international type classes- I not taught this specific version before (my colleague at Rockhurst usually does it). So it is using a book I have not used before- so I have to read it too. I also have to create slides and lecture notes. But anyone who knows me- realizes I don’t have to actually know anything about a subject to successfully lecture on it for hours.

Finally, the class make up is different too. No Poles are in the class. About half are Chinese plus several from France, a few from the Czech Republic and a German. That will be an interesting dynamic.

Teaching at Politechnika has been great and what a learning experience. We (Politechnika and I) have both initiated early conversations for me to stay on their faculty permanently. Now before Lisa reads this and has a stroke, thinking I am trying to get us to move to Poland- NO! (Settle down Lisa. Have a drink).

It means I would stay active in their academic community, come over on occasion to deliver short classes, do research, etc. I have no interest in leaving Rockhust (So, settle down Cheryl. Have a drink, too. She is my boss at Rockhurst and reads these). Rockhurst is very, very good to me as well. But if I can become a bi-continent professor- that would really add to my already inflated Fulbright ego, which I desperately need.

On that note- want to see my Politechnika faculty profile page?: http://www.zie.pg.gda.pl/modules.php?name=Encyclopedia&op=content&tid=202

So, off to teaching the next generation of European Capitalists (but Glenn Beck seems to think they are all Socialists- I invite him over here for one week....).

Are We Really a "BIG" family?

I have not mentioned this in any previous blogs- but traveling with a family of six in Europe is surprisingly challenging. Most places are not set up for six.

This was unexpected to me. As in the numerous times I have been to Europe, it has either been by myself or with one other person. So traveling with a wife and four kids was new.

Europe has gone through a dramatic shift in the past few decades. Birth rates are down and so is average family size. The average birth rate in Europe is 1.4 children per female (that is not even enough to sustain the population). Since WWII, Europe has really become a one or two kid family continent. Oddly enough, you even see that in 90% Catholic Poland, Spain and Ireland. In 2006, Europe had more people that died than were born. So small families and a shrinking population are the norm. And the accommodations reflect that trend.

Now, we have four kids. That is certainly above average- but I never thought of that as “huge.” Actually in our little microcosm of Olathe- it is rather normal to have three, four or five kids in a family. So, I was surprised to experience the barriers in Europe to a family of our size. Almost everyone I have met in Poland has one, maybe two kids. You rarely see a family of three or more kids.

I first encountered this challenge before I left KC. Now finding three or four bedroom apartments and rental houses in the Midwest is quite easy. In Europe and specially Poland- it was very difficult. Most apartments I looked at were two or three rooms (that’s total rooms- not bedrooms), designed to fit three or maybe four people. I actually rented one of the largest places I could find (1200 sq ft- yes that is considered big). We really turned out to be lucky with our little house and we love it- but other problems existed as we traveled.

Europe really does not cater to families larger than four or maybe five total people.

When traveling, my one of my biggest challenges is to find a place for us to stay. I really have to search to find decent large (six and above) accommodations.

Let’s start with hotels. In the States we could usually cram ourselves into an Embassy Suites. In the States, you usually have two room choices: having one Queen/King bed in the room OR two double beds. In Europe, a “double” means two single beds (and little floor space). A "single" is one Queen (with little floor space). A "suite" adds you a fridge and microwave (no more beds, couches or floor space). So, for most European hotels I can get two per room and rent two or three rooms.

So, I have resorted to renting flats when traveling. This is even problematic- as most tell you the maximum number allowed in the flat is 4 or 5 people. I usually can find a few special ones that hold six (I spend hours on the internet looking for just that). Secondly, they charge you by person (regardless of age). So they give you a nightly rate times six. In theory- Lisa and I could stay in a flat and pay 80 Euros for the night. However, to add the four kids into the exact same flat (and taking up no more of their space)- the rate goes to 250 Euros a night. It personally irks me to pay the same amount for my seven year old, Trey, to sleep on the floor, as I get charged to stay there (and no, it is very difficult to hide children from the landlord- particularly mine. I got caught in Warsaw doing it).

Many restaurants also do not have seating for six (in contrast, most restaurants in the US have a couple six or eight tops available). In Europe, the physical space of the restaurants is usually quite smaller. So they rarely have a table for six us over here. We usually have to wait for a four top next to a two top to open and push them together. Ironically, the only place I have consistently found seating for six is at McDonald’s and Burger King. In Warsaw, we were turned away from a few restaurants- who would not serve a group of “our size”. Sometimes I feel like I’m traveling with the Von Trapp family- without the singing.

Even food comes in small batches. Cereal comes in 150 or 300 gram bags and milk comes in one liter bottles. Imagine how many multiples we need just for one meal.

Transportation is another issue. If we need to take a cab- we sometimes have to wait for quite a while before a six seater is available. Many cabs are minivans- but they have the back seats removed- so they really only seat four or five.

A couple of airlines I have looked only allow you to purchase five tickets per transaction. The pull down menu even stops at five. It says- “if you have more than five people”- call group sales (when in the hell did having four kids become “group sales”?- back to the Von Trapp's image).

Anyway- I am not really complaining- just observing and sharing. Even given the challenges at times- we are having a wonderful, wonderful time living and traveling. I just found this to be an unexpected challenge of the trip.