Sunday, January 16, 2011
Did I ever leave?
Now that I a committed blogger- I will backtrack a little.
I returned Gdansk Poland last Sunday, to same University that I left six months ago.
For those that knew I was going- I was usually asked the same questions. Here is my FAQ.
So, the first question- why am I back?
Well a few reasons. First, (other than the weather) I really liked it here. I liked the people, my friends, the students (well, most of them), and the program.
Secondly, I have a really long break for Christmas at Rockhurst- six weeks off (not to be confused with the week I get off in October, week off in March and then the entire summer). College faculty are said to work 24/7- that is 24 hours a week, 7 months a year. Now, while that sounds like a gift from God- I look for other challenges during my down time. To me- teaching overseas is the best of everything you can get. Someone pays you to travel all over the world. Lastly, the University in Poland has a need for someone to teach in my discipline in English.
So, before I left last June- we began discussing possibilities of returning for this academic year. Now my barrier was this full time (sort of) job I have at Rockhurst. Rockhurst is very flexible, but they do expect me to show up now and then. There are only two times during the year where 1) I am NOT teaching at Rockhurst AND 2) The the University in Gdansk IS teaching- that is January and May.
As mentioned, Rockhurst is quite flexible with international work. There are about three or four of us business professors who like to do University experiences overseas. Both our Dean and Chair believes this also adds to our credibility at Rockhurst (we really sold them on that one!).
Anyway- it seems to work out with timing.
For the next question- Did Lisa and the kids come with me? Short answer- Hell No! (that is not my hell no either). Lisa loved her trip and experience last year- and it is a gift we truly gave to our children. That said, I have strict rules not to ask her to leave the country again for 15 years. For some reason the trip was a lot of work for her.... I don’t get women! You pack a bag in the morning, and you leave for several weeks or months. What’s the big deal?
Then- How long am I staying this time? Well, about a month. I will be back the first week of February.
Next question- I am staying at the same place? No. We had lived in a rather large house (for Polish standards) and although I loved the house, I did not need the big space (although some days it was really small with the six of us living in it). But more importantly, our landlords (and friends) would not take our suggestion and turn the house into a Gartland museum once we left. Instead they rented it to someone else. So, I now have a flat (I love that word) near the University that is owned by our MBA Director (more on the flat in another post- just so I can use the word again).
What is it like to be back in Poland? Well- in many ways it feels as I did not leave. My friend Charles picked me up at the airport (he also took me to the airport when Ieft last June). I still had my European cell phone (that worked), my Gdansk tram/bus pass (that worked), my ATM card for my local Gdansk bank (that worked), even my minimal Polish language came back (although still minimal).
I arrived at the University on the first day, just expecting to work out of some corner or in the library (since I was only going to be here for a few weeks). But no, they had my office from last year set back up. My name was on the door. Even my same coffee cup from last year had been cleaned and placed back on my desk. The secretary had hung a new 2011 calendar for me and placed a marker on the correct date of my arrival.
I saw my University friends and exchanged hugs.
Then I went down to the University cafe and saw the same worker who always waited on me. She said, “you’re back”, “I guess you want an Americano” (the drink I ordered every day last year).
I guess word had spread I was back. Within 1 hour, two students were at my office door wanting to complain about the grade I had given them last year.
Finally, the thing that made me feel most welcome. About 2 months ago, I got several Rockhurst shirts that we give to either students, faculty or as promotional items. I sent my University friends in Gdansk a box of them. On my first day- everyone wore their Rockhurst shirt (even the Dean and Vice Deans).
Here are pictures of a few friends.
So that is the story of my arrival and first day. I have a few more posts to create to catch up.
If you received this by email- that is because you subscribed to my blog last year. If you want to unsubscribe- that is not advisable..... lord knows what you will miss.
Saturday, June 26, 2010
Only 22 hours late
This is a rather rambling story of my helish trip home- so only start it if you have time.
The time has finally come to return to the US and my regular life. Lisa and the kids left a week ago- while I finished things up in Gdansk and then went to a conference in Denmark.
But the day has arrived to pack my bags and see what Olathe is like again.
My leaving was actually a protracted event. It began last Sunday with checking out of the house with our friends and landlords. They came over about 11am, walked through the house and gave it a thumbs up. Actually, as it is newly renovated house- our 4 kids could have really done some damage. Luckily and with the constant reminders from Lisa- the worse we had were hand print streaks on the walls going down the staircase. The Draniewicz’s invited me over for a coffee and we talked about them coming to the US. About 2:30- with a very, very heavy suitcase they all took me to the airport.
Arrival to Aalborg was fine- and my 5 day stay was nice. See my blog on that http://mylesgartland.blogspot.com/2010/06/side-trip.html
Thursday was my last evening in Europe after 10 months. My flight left at 6:30am, so I ordered a taxi for 5am. I planned to get to sleep early.
I forgot that Denmark was playing Japan in the World Cup on Thursday night, and the locals were in high spirit. Even though Denmark lost badly, it did not deter their spirits and they partied in the streets and at the apartment complex next door until all hours.
The alarm went off at 4:15 (I packed the previous night) and made it to my taxi at 5am. Ironically, when I got up- I saw that Lisa was still on Skpye (it was only 9:30p in Olathe, so I called and she said that she had just put Trey to bed).
As we drove down the street- there were still several footballer fans from the previous night’s party stumbling around the street. So, they had been at it for at least 10-12 hours.
With no traffic, we arrived at the airport in 15 minutes. My flight schedule was long, but straight forward. Aalborg to Copenhagen to Brussels to Chicago to Kansas City. 17 hours door to door.
Aalborg
They always tell you to get the the airport 2 hours early for an international flight. I had to get all my tickets in Aalborg, plus check my bags through to KC. So I arrived at 1:20 hours early. I walked into the terminal and the lights were not even on. There were a few people waiting in the dark, the only light coming in from the windows, waiting for the many desks to open. It was at least another 25 minutes before the first worker showed up. I had one bag (which was .2 kg under the weight limit). I also had a very heavy rolling back pack, plus my regular back pack. Now to check a second item is $50. But I decided that since the rolling backpack was so heavy and I had so many connections- it would be worth it. That proved to be good foresight... Of course, I had to go through security, take off my belt, shoes, scan my bags and the other usual things. I even had time for an espresso. The SAS airplane took off from Aalborg on time and without issue. Perfect beginning.
Copenhagen
After the 40 minute flight to Copenhagen- the issues began. I had 35 minutes before the next leg to Brussels took off. First, you arrive at a small side, terminal A, (for the local planes). Then you take a bus to one of the bigger terminals. First problem- I had no indication of what terminal my next flight was in. I finally found someone what terminal my flight left from. They said definitely terminal 2. As terminal 2 is 1/2 mile away- you have to take a bus. The buses only comes every 15 minutes (and I am on a really tight schedule). I wait and wait (one must have left just before I arrived). It finally came and I was off to terminal 2.
I walked in, and again could not find my SAS Air flight (15 minutes before it leaves). I went up to a desk, and she said this airline departs from terminal 3, not 2. Luckily, the distance between terminal 2 and 3 is not far- so I was able to quickly walk.
I arrived at terminal 3 and saw my flight- I also saw it was running 10 minutes late, so I was actually relieved. It said go to gate B2. Now, since I had to go outside to change terminals- I had to go through screening again. Shoes, belts, remove laptop, scan stuff all over again.
I run down to gate B2 only to see people with a dejected look leaving the gate and walking away. When I arrived- a sign said- “gate changed to D (yes D) 6. Way on the other side of the terminal. Plus the flight was delayed even more, another 20 minutes.
I got to Gate D2, only to sit down and hear that we have been moved to D4 (at least that was close). I also looked at the sign and the flight was delayed another hour.
Well, given all the delays- there was no way that I was going to make connection #3 in Brussels. The flight leaving Copenhagen was going to leave after my Brussels to Chicago connection was gone. I started to think about what to do. I got on the internet and looked at later Brussels flights to Chicago. There was only one more leaving that day. Brussels to Chicago via New Deli, India- 25 hours.
About that time, I hear my name being called over the intercom to “come to the desk”. The desk person tells me and 2 other who are also taking the Brussels to Chicago leg, “that we are probably not going to make it”. No shit!
He said we had to go to terminal 2 and talk to the transfer desk. Back to terminal 2.
Me and my two new BFF went to the transfer gate, and told them we were asked to report to here. Of course, the transfer gate had no idea why we were asked to go there, so they called the gate. They got off the phone and said “it looks like you will all miss your Brussels to Chicago flight”. No shit!
So he typed and typed and typed and found me a new route:
Copenhagen to Newark to Chicago to KC (eventually arriving 5 hours later than I was suppose to- but at least it was home).
The gate for our new flight was back in terminal 2: Gate C.
Back through the terminal and back through security. Off with the belt, shoes, laptop, scan this and that.
As Copenhagen was now by place where I was leaving the EU- me and my new BFFs had to also go through the passport control line. We arrived at that point only to find the line about 100 yards long, with 8 people across. It was hot and tightly packed. A man across from me passed out in line and hit his head one someone’s steel suitcase. He had to be taken away in a wheelchair. I would have helped out- but I did not want to lose my spot in line.
We finally get to passport control- and the guard doesn’t look at my picture, does not check my name, does not scan my passport and does not even ask any questions. He just puts in his obligatory stamp and I am off- what is that helping to prevent?
I get to my gate C40 (by now I have been in 3 terminals and Gate sections A, B, C & D) and was given a new boarding pass. As I enter the gate area- I am grabbed by the arm by an attendant and he says “Mr. Gartland, you have been randomly selected for an additional screening, please come to this cubicle”. So, off with the belt, shoes, out with laptop, screen my stuff, swipe my hands, and I am asked to turn ON all my electronic devices. Well, all that is in my backpack is electronic devices, so this takes a while. I even had to turn on my slide projector lecture pointer. Then I got a nice pat-down from a lady guard. Finally, I was allowed to enter the plane to Newark.
The Long Flight
When I booked this new flight with SAS in Copenhagen, I specifically was assured that I had an aisle seat. I asked twice. As I got on the plane, I saw that I was about to spend 8 hours in a middle aisle seat. I have a theory about this. There is a strong relationship between how many people you have to climb over and how often you have to pee. This works not only on airplanes, but in movie theaters and stadiums too. I wanted to time my trips to when the guy in the aisle seat got up to pee, then I would just follow him. However he was a pee camel. Never went the entire 8 hour flight- which made me have to go even more.
That said, I figured the worst was over, and what could go wrong in Newark?
Newark
I arrive in Newark at terminal B, get through passport control, recheck my bags through United Airlines to go from Chicago, then to KC. US Passport control asked me no questions and did not even notice I have been out of the country for 10 months, or ask where I have been and doing.
Now back in Copenhagen, SAS Air has booked me on United Flights to Chicago and to Kansas City (SAS is part of the Star Alliance, but does not run intra-US flights).
I have to leave terminal B and take the airport train to the United gates at terminal A (you need a train to go from terminal to terminal). My flight is on the departures board, but the gate is not listed yet. I have about 1.5 hours. So, I wait and wait. The flight stays on the board, but a gate is never assigned.
With about 45 minutes to go, I walk up to the United ticket booth and they are just posting a sign that the “Chicago flight is canceled. See a ticket agent”.
I went up to the agent and told her what occurred and gave her my travel reroute voucher from SAS Air that I received in Copenhagen. She said that United would only honor the voucher for the flight that was just canceled- and I needed to go back to the SAS ticketing to get another voucher. Plus she told me- there would be no more United flights to KC that night.
I asked where were the SAS Agents- she said “terminal B”.
I got back on the train and went back to terminal B and found the SAS agent. She said, well there is a Continental flight leaving in 30 minutes- if you hurry you might make it. She scribbled out a voucher. I asked where was the Continental flights. She said terminal C....Back on the train.
I get to Continental in Terminal C and the line for security was 100 people deep (and my flight was leaving in 20 minutes). I walked right past all 100 people (hearing them curse at me) and went right up to the security line and handed the agent my voucher. She said I could not get through with this voucher. I needed to exchange the voucher for a “real Continental ticket” upstairs. So I ran upstair to the Continental desk. It was 75 people deep- I walked right passed everyone (hearing them curse at me) and quickly told the ticket agent my story and asked if I could get a quick ticket. He looked at the voucher from SAS- and said, “she filled this out wrong, I cannot accept it. Plus, since you are within 30 minutes of the flight I can’t issue you a ticket anyway”. I asked if there was a later flight- he said, I had to go back to SAS and get another voucher.
Back to terminal B and my SAS agent. (by this time I am about in my panic attack mode).
I arrive back with same lady and SAS and told her the Continental person would not let me on with this voucher. She said, “I was afraid of that, and expected to see you again”. I asked calmly, well what’s next. She said she had looked at all available flights and nothing else was going to KC tonight. I would need to spend the night in New Jersey and try again tomorrow.
Now I might be writing this calmly, but that was certainly not my mood during this time. It was a complex mixture of utter anger and panic. I talked my self down and started to accept my fate. No sense in getting further rattled and either ending up in the ER or jail. Also, I have no cell phone (I still have a Polish SIM card in my phone- so I can’t call Lisa). I had to borrow a stranger’s phone- as Lisa did not know what was going on.
Th SAS lady found me a Saturday morning ticket (on American Airlines this time) and gives me a voucher to get a ticket from them. I said “where am I staying tonight and who is paying”. The only person I know in New Jersey is Tony Soprano. She said, “well since United is the one that canceled your flight- they should arrange for your stay. Just go back to terminal A.....”
I stopped her at that point and said (well I can’t repeat that...). Anyway she agreed to get me a hotel and SAS pay for it. She called and called and most hotels were booked. She finally got me a room at Hampton Inn. She wrote out a hotel voucher to Hampton Inn.
On my way out- I briefly mentioned that I wonder where I might get my checked bags tomorrow. I assumed I can just pick them up in KC- but what airline would have them, as I had not seen them in hours? (But I had been transferred to so many flights in the past hours). She said, “oh no- under new regulations if you are not on the flight then your bags are pulled, so they are still in NJ”. I asked, “then where are my bags in NJ”- she said “I don’t have that on my system”. She recommended I go back to the international terminal and ask them to see what airline my bags ended up on.
Back to the train to international. I go to the international baggage people and go through the entire story. I said I just wanted to know where I can pick up my bags. She looked and found they were still at United- back in terminal A. Back on the train to A.
I go to the United baggage people and tell them my story. Of course, he has no records of my bags- but I can actually see them behind him. So I ask if he could just turn around, he would not need his computer. He says I have to take them with me now since I am flying American in the morning.
I get my 100 lbs of bags and now need to get to the hotel. I ask a red cap where the hotel buses come- and he said “The P4 terminal stop- just get on the train......” so back on the train- this time with 100 lbs of bags.
I get on the Hampton Inn bus and take the 5 minute ride to the hotel.
Hampton Inn- Newark
I get to Hampton Inn and gave them my name and the hotel voucher that SAS gave me. He looked at it and went into the back office. He came back out and said that their hotel does not accept vouchers from this airline. He said I should go back to SAS at the airport and have them either give me cash for the room or set me up at another hotel. I said (well I can’t repeat that either)- then I just gave him my credit card and said “give me a room”.
I had been up and traveling for the better part of 24 hours by this point- and I am in New Jersey. I shower (of course, I tossed most of toiletries at the Aalborg hotel that morning before I left- since I have plenty at home and was expecting to be there that night).
To bed and try again tomorrow.
Newark Airport Part II
As my body is still recovering from the 7 hour time difference, I was up rather early. I went down and had the breakfast buffet. I paid my $109 for my room (SAS will hear from me later on this). Even though my flight did not leave Newark until 10:20a- I wanted to take no chances- so I left at 7:30a. I assumed the worst. Would American take my SAS voucher? But my biggest concern were my bags. My big suitcase was within .2kg of international flight weight limits- which means it was way over the domestic flight weight limit. Plus, I had already paid for my second bag to be checked too (but that was yesterday, and several different sets of airlines ago). I could see me needing to pay another hefty fee(s) to get my bags on. I had even left on all the baggages tags from yesterday to show all the places they had been- to maybe garner sympathy.
At the ticket desk, I was all ready with sad story and plead for my tickets and bags. Not only was there no line at American- she took my voucher, gave me my ticket and took all my bags with no questions asked. I was sitting in front of my gate with no bags, tickets in hand- two hours early. The flight took off on time. Newark was glad to get rid of me.
Chicago
My original worry had always been Chicago O’Hare (ORD). To me, ORD is Dante’s 5th ring of Hell. Nothing ever goes well there. Almost every problem I have ever had in my life flying occurred in or about ORD. Once we sat on the ORD tarmac for 2 hours so they could check pillows. To my delight, other than a 20 minute delay- we got off without issue and headed to KC (I was suppose to be on this flight route 22 hours ago).
It was my pleasure to see the family as I arrived in Kansas City. Although it had only been a week since I said goodbye to them in Gdansk- it felt like a month. Good to be home- only 22 hours late.
Conclusion
So about 40 hours door to door. Aalborg to Olathe.
Although I have heard worse stories- this was the most hassle I have ever gone through in travel. As you read Lisa’s blog last week- she had an adventure (albeit a very different one) getting home too. That said, the right travel nightmare happened to the right people. Lisa could have never navigated all those back and forth, ticket counters, security checks and hotel with all the kids. I could not have handled the barfing, the kids, lines, the kids etc.
Finally, I must ask what rational person would work at one of these airline customer service centers? Cleaning Johnny-on-the-Spots must be a more enjoyable job. These people take the brunt of all the airline stupidity that occurs. Every time I was in line at one of these places (and boy was I at several)- everyone in front of me and everyone behind me were about ready to explode due to their own personal travel hell.
Thursday, June 24, 2010
A side trip
I had to finish up some things, plus I was involved in a conference at the University- so I did not leave Poland until Sunday.
Also, Lisa does not like her and I to take the same flight (same policy as the President and Vice President; guess which one I am).
However, I still have grant money left and one of my favorite conferences was this week. So, when I left Poland, I went further north to Aalborg Denmark.
I am attending the International Schumpeter Society Conference (aren’t you sorry you missed it?). It is where 300 of the world’s top evolutionary economists (and me) come together to talk our trade and research. Now, I would typically be attending this conference anyway (even coming from the States for it)-and since it was just an extra few days and an hour plane ride, I stayed around Europe. This had been planned before I even came to Poland.
As I mentioned before, Denmark is one of my favorite countries in the world. This is my 5th or 6th trip here since 2004. It is particularly nice in the summer. Although I have been to Denmark many times- this is my first trip to Aalborg. It is a rather small city, about 100,000 people- with a big University.
Aalborg is rather far north, further north than Gdansk, Copenhagen and even Edinburgh Scotland- so this is probably the furthest north I have been. The City of Aalborg is about as close to Norway as it is Copenhagen. Which also means the sun is up even longer. It starts to rise about 3:30am, but does not set until about 11pm.
I arrived in Aalborg on Sunday night and the conference started Monday. But by this time the family had been back in Kansas 48 hours.
Another reason Lisa was glad I went to this conference during her first week back- was I would “just get in the way” to getting things correctly back in order. I accept that.
The conference was good and I got to see some people I wanted. The major academic book publishers were there selling the latest editions (we use to be able to get these for free- but times have changed. I only bought two). However, we failed to solved any of the world’s problems (that will be next year). It ended Wednesday night and for all practical purposes I should have returned home on Thursday. However, oddly enough traveling on a Thursday was several hundred dollars more expensive than on a Friday. And when your one way ticket already costs over $1,000- that is significant.
So instead, I spent Thursday catching up on some work and I took a nice walk through this beautiful city. It is a typical Denmark city (Middle Age structures and modern art). It sits on a long fjord (what a cool word).
My cab picks me up at 5am for a 6:30 flight and then back to the States for the first time since September. I need to hurry home get in line for one of those new iphones!
I will blog on my 17 hour trip home this weekend. But lets just say I travel Aalborg-Copenhagen-Brussels-Chicago-Kansas City.
Monday, June 21, 2010
Poles going to the Polls
Today is the special Presidential Election for Poland. It is the first Sunday after a 60 day period from when the former President was killed in a plane crash.
For those of your who think it is unusual to have a Presidential election in a Sunday- it is actually the norm in many parts of the world.
Polls are open for the Poles until 8pm.
Now, this was to be an election year anyway- however the election had to be moved up by several months due to the death of President Lech Kaczynski.
Kaczynski was a member of the Law and Justice Party- a quite far right of center (very conservative party), who is rather nationalistic. He was brought into office promising returning Poland to its greatest and individuality; and being hesitant about full EU integration. But based on the polls prior to his death- he had lost most of his momentum. Even before his death, it was predicted he would not be reelected.
So with his death, the Law and Justice Party needed a new candidate. So, Kaczynski’s identical twin brother (Jaroslaw Kaczynski) took his place in the election (yes, identical twin). Truth is always stranger than fiction.
There are 10 people running for President today, but 8 are from rather small parties.
The other major party in the election is the Civic Platform Party. The are right of center too- but more Eurocentric and interested in globalization and foreign policy. Although they are “right of center” too- they are not near as conservative as the Law and Justice Party. The Civic Platform Party already controls Parliament, and Poland’s Prime Minister (Donald Tusk) is from the Civic Platform Party.
House Speaker Bronislaw Komorowski from the Civic Platform Party was appointed “acting President” when Kaczynski died. Komorowski is also their Presidential candidate today.
Based on the polls (of Poles)- Komorowski is the favorite to win.
The hot issues in Poland are: Poland’s integration into the EU. Polish troops in Afghanistan (Poland have had troops fighting along with the US soldiers since the conflict began. Like in the US, some of the populace is growing tired of the endless war). And finally, the economy: including more privatization of industry and less spending on social programs.
Poland’s political suture is different from the US- as they have both a President and a Prime Minister. Most executive power in Poland rests in the hands of the Prime Minister and Cabinet (who the Prime Minister appoints). But the President serves as commander-in-chief of the armed forces and can veto laws, giving him/her significant influence.
But the way I always viewed it- it seemed as if the Prime Minister (Tusk) had the most power- and the President was just either a friend or a barrier to the PM. But the President is the official “face” of the country.
As the President and Prime Minister had been from different parties; and the two did not like each other- things sometimes moved slowly. However, if Komorowski wins, Civic Platform will control everything.
Although the US nor EU make any official statement- from their interests, a Civic Platform win would likley be their preference.
You might ask where is the famous Solidarity Party of Lech Walesa? Well, as with many groups- it is much easier to oppose than to rule. Solidarity will forever be known as the political group that broke Communism, and the first group democratically elected in Poland’s in modern history. But Walesa and Solidarity only made it through one election. During their short rein, there was so much political in-fighting on how to move forward- that Solidarity (as a political party) disbanded and its members all went left, right and center (including forming the two parties mentioned above). Many of the iconic leaders don’t even speak to each other any more. Ironic.
Also, by Polish law, the Presidential winner has to receive 50% or more of the vote. With 10 people running (even if the small groups get just 1 or 2 percent)- 50% is hard to accomplish. So, in the event no one wins by 50% or greater- a run off election is held in 2 weeks by the top two vote getters (who will likely be Komorowski & Kaczynski).
So, not only were we here for the terrible tragedy of the death of Lech Kaczynski. We were able to see a Presidential election cycle.
PS- It is not Father’s Day here. They celebrate Father’s Day on the 26th.
Saturday, June 19, 2010
My final week at Polytechnika
Friday, June 4, 2010
Our local concentation camp
Earlier this week, Ben and I traveled to Stutthof, the WW2 concentration camp for the Gdansk area. It holds a few special designations. It was the first concentration camp to be set up (2-September 1939) and the last to be liberated (9-May-1945). During those years, 85,000 died on its grounds.
There is a big memorial at the end of the camp which reminds everyone that this camp was “built by people, for people”. So keep that in mind as you read my details.
As noted in my previous blogs, Gdansk holds the distinction of receiving the first shots of WWII (1-September 1939). The Nazis quickly invaded the city and needed a place to hold their political (Polish) prisoners. Most of the prisoners were not military, but rather community leaders like priests and teachers.
Stutthof Concentration camp is located about 30 KM outside of Gdansk, but it takes an hour to get there on a bus. It is literally in the middle of the woods. Beginning on the night of September 1st 1939, anyone who the Nazi’s felt would be a threat to them were either shot on site or sent to Stutthof. Over 110,000 people were sent to Stutthof during the war years. Many from Gdansk and its surrounding area.
I have learned something new as I have visited a few WWII camps. First is the difference between a concentration camp and an extermination camp. A concentration camp is built as a prison or work camp. An extermination camp is where people (i.e. Jews) were sent for the sole purpose of being put directly to death. At the height of the war, Central and Eastern Europe were dotted with both concentration and extermination camps. Most were on Polish soil, and most we have never heard of.
My family and I visited the very famous Auschwitz-Berkinow back in the fall. Auschwitz, particularly in its later years, functioned mainly as an extermination camp. Meaning as people came off the train- they were immediately marched from the train platform directly into the gas chamber. Millions died at Auschwitz, many living less than a day after they arrived at the camp.
Stutthof was a little different. It was set up to hold prisoners and have them conduct work for German industry. So, most who came to Stutthof were sent to be held and worked- not necessarily immediately exterminated. Now, there was an exception. Stutthof also had gas chambers (like Auschwitz). If a prisoner was a mother with children, pregnant, or old or weak- they were of no use to the Germans and were sent right from the train to the gas chambers. Others deemed strong would be put to work. Stutthof’s large death toll was largely came from working people to death, or death by the elements or disease.
We were told the story about how word began to spread about what was occurring to the people being taken to these small brick buildings (the gas chambers)- so the prisoners started to resist. With old ladies- they were told they had jobs in the next town as seamstresses. The old ladies happily got on the train for their job. The train would circle the camp twice and the tracks eventually went right into a modified gas chamber. They were gassed while sitting on the train. (They had a couple of the old train cars still at the camp).
Working conditions were brutal. They worked 12 hours per day M-Sa and 8 hours on Sunday and holidays. The work was very physical. For example, they would have to cut down trees, then instead of having mules to pull the heavy carts- they used the prisoners as the mules. Falling on the job, getting sick, or not working fast enough would earn you a beating on the “billy”. It was administered in public, before dinner. Many died during the beatings. However if a prisoner died during the beating- the Nazi SS guard would still continue to carry out all the strokes sentenced.
Given the hard work and brutal expectations- prisoners were barely keep alive. No heat and little food. They were given about 800 calories a day; a fraction for a normal person to survive. Although the camp was included in the Jewish final solution- and did have Jews- it was never set up to do the mass exterminations like Auschwitz. That said, a fare share of Jews did die at the camp. However, most of its prisoners were non-Jewish Poles.
Ironically, as you enter the front area of the camp you see this big beautiful house. It was for the Nazi Camp Commander. He lived there with his family. They told us his kids played in the yard and the wife cooked and hung laundry- like a normal family- while all this brutality was occurring less than 100 yards behind them.
As mentioned, prominent members of Gdansk society were held; including the pastor, Bronisław Komorowski, from the church we have been attending this year in our neighborhood. He was taken from his church on Sept 2nd, and later executed. A memorial stands at our church- and he even has a memorial at the Stutthof camp along with the other priests and nuns murdered.
As the Russians started to get close to the camp in 1945- the Nazi’s knew they needed to retreat, but they decided the prisoners had to go with them. Although most were frail- they were expected to walk from the Stutthof camp and retreat into Germany with the Nazis. If the labor did not kill them, the walk did.
After the war, a number of the victims that had been buried (including Bronisław Komorowski) were exummed and reburied in a special cemetary that is only 50 yards from our front door. The headstones each have the vicitims name and "Murdered at Stutthof Camp".
I have now been to several concentration and extermination camps. Although the stories really do not change- I am still always surprised and numb when I hear them and see the physical reminders. So the message at the end of the camp is the strongest. How could people build and operate this to inflict on other people?
Some other photos of the camp.
Chickens now control the railroad tracks leading into the camp.
One of the Gas Chambers. The Guard would climb on the roof and drop in the Zyklon B gas pellets.
The Death Gate- the front entrance to the camp. People who walked in usually knew this was the last place they would see.
A recreation of the living quarters for the prisoners.
Monday, May 31, 2010
Translation
Time over here is quickly running out- my year ends in less than a month.
I had another unique experience (of a year full of unique experiences) this weekend.
A few weeks ago I was approached by a faculty and asked to conduct two- four hour lectures to a group of medical workers (doctors, nurses, dentists, and administrators). He gave me the rather vague instructions of “talking about the US health care system”. Now this is one of those subjects that I need zero prep for. I have spent 20 years working in and teaching about the US Health Care system. So, I happily agreed.
However, about a week ago- I learned of a new condition on teaching this class.: 80% of the students DO NOT speak English. Oh, crap! And although I can order my morning coffee and give the taxi driver my destination in Polish- I certainly cannot lecture in that language.
So, I was told we would bring in a translator. Meaning, I would speak a paragraph or two, then the translator would translate it for the class. Then me, then her- back and forth for 4 hours. Of course this worked for student questions as well. They would ask her the question: who would translate it to English for me, I would respond to her- then she back to the class....
Plus I had slides (in English)- so she had to point each column and translate them.
By far one of the most unique teaching situations I had ever been in.
I made it through 15 slides (I had brought 60) in my four hour time period.
I want to say how impressed I was with the translator however. She is a student and native Pole, studying to be a professional English-Polish translator. However, when I spoke to her, I could have sworn she was a native Brit. She had a perfect British accent (or as my British friends tell me, “proper English”). I asked if she grew up in Britain. She said she had visited only a couple of times. So I asked about her accent. She told me that when you learn English, you have to chose to learn using the British version or American version. And they spend lots of training to get that proper accent. As she hopes to live in Britain- she chose the British accented training (and it really worked). She sounds like she stepped right out of Buckingham Palace.
The class had about 40 medical professionals in it- of which only 5 or 6 spoke strong English.
Now what was hard for me with the translator was remembering to stop occasionally.
Given this subject matter and my tendency to talk- I rarely know what is going to come out of my mouth until it does. I am planning my next sentence as I am speaking it. Which is a fancy way to say- “I B.S.”. Secondly (as I have mentioned before) my teaching style is very interactive and I pose questions to the students as I am rambling. So, talk about lost in translation. Actually because the translator was so good- it went much better than I thought. Just a very odd and slow way to do things.
As for the class- as I mentioned, all of the group were either clinical or administrative medical professionals. They work in the Polish system that was designed as a Universal health care system; but now they are adopting some amount of free market principles including private insurance companies. So, I was really curious as to what they would be interested in hearing about the US system.
Although I had not planned to speak much about this- they were fascinated about the malpractice issues. The fact that a patient could sue a doctor for any reason, with any evidence- AND the case was decided by 13 uneducated (about medicine) jurors- who have lots of discretion on what they could award- was unbelievable to them. They asked- even if a doctor follows all the guidelines, he could still get sued? And I said- Well, yes. And if it is a crying mother who lost her child, the doctor could lose everything......
Also, as I have mentioned before- explaining the US health care system to anyone outside of the US is a challenge. You really do not get how nutty our system is- until you have to explain how it works to someone from the outside. I start- Well if you are over 65, then this. If you are poor, then this. If you have a job, and your employer offers insurance, then this. If you are retired military, than this. If you are both poor AND old, then this....
Now, I AM a big believer in several of the competitive aspects of the US system. That said, it is way too confusing, expensive and fragmented. So I hope what these Polish students can get from it, is to just take the better parts of our competitive system and private insurers: but ignore the rest.
My second part of this translation blog is ME being the translator. My University is hosting a conference in a month on Entrepreneurship and Innovation. Professors from all over Europe (mostly central and eastern) were invited to submit papers. However, the conference is to be held in English (almost all worldwide academic conferences are held in English). That said, likely no one who submitted a paper or attends the conference (except me) has English as their first language.
I am on the scientific committee for this conference, and have a simple job. I am to judge “adequate or inadequate” English. I am to do a simple test- I read the first page of each submitted paper. If the English seems adequate- I pass on to another judge for content. If the English seems inadequate- it is rejected before it is evaluated for anything else. Interesting job. Just hope my English is adequate.





















