Social Butterfly

When we lived in Gdansk last year- we made some terrific friends. Some neighbors, some colleagues, some school mates of the kids.

As with any trip when you go back to a place you once lived- a bright spot is getting to see your friends.

Although I have taught many nights on this trip, I still managed to get in some social activities.

First was a special evening with the Draniewicz’s (evening #1)- they were our landlords and good friends. Their son Karol plays in a band at a college bar each Wednesday night. Although I am way to old to be hanging out at a college bar (particularly on a Wednesday)- I spent the evening watching his three hour set. They played mostly American rock tunes (in English of course) from the 80s and 90s. My kind of music. I really enjoyed their band.

Karol is in the in the back with the mic. I am sitting behind him

It was a celebration that night as it was the birthday week of Karolina and also of the name day of Karol’s father Mariusz. In Poland, many people do not celebrate the dates of their birth, but rather the day of what Saint they are named after. So, if you are named Patrick (my Saint’s name), I would celebrate each year on March 17th instead of September 24th. The whole Draniewicz family was there including mother and daughter Basia and Anita. We had a great time.

Mariusz, Basia and Myles

Karol, Basia, Myles and Karolina

Anita, Mariusz and Basia

On that Friday, the Economists at Politechnika took me out for drinks in Sopot. Now you know how wild economists can get- so I can’t really go into too many details about the evening. Needless to say we had a really nice time. The only other man in the picture is Piotr, the Dean of the School of Management and Economics (and a Economist himself).

Some of the Economists from Politechnika

On that Saturday, I found myself back at the Draniewicz (Draniewicz evening #2) house for dinner. Basia knows I love her Bigos (Polish Hunter Stew) so she made a large pot. I think I had three servings.

I told the Draniewicz’s that I had read in one of the Polish travel books that proper edict when visiting a Polish house was to 1) bring the mother flowers 2) bring the father a bottle of booze and 3) pet the family dog. So, being a trying to be a good guest..... I brought the flowers and the booze and made good friends again with the dog. I think for the booze however they usually mean bring a bottle of vodka- this is where I broke with tradition. I found a bottle of good American black label Jim Beam bourbon. Needless to say the bottle did not make it to the end of the night. Karol, Mariusz, Woitech and I made sure of it.

This is our basement of our house we lived in. They converted it to a Remax office

On Sunday, I was invited over to our Vice Dean (and of course my friend) Magda’s house. Magda was not only my boss and friend, but she was our shepherd last year that helped us through so many of the bureaucratic hurdles. We ate with her husband Gregory and 6th grade son Filip . Notice Filip’s shirt. I am turning him into an American football and Chiefs fan.

Magda, Filip and Gregory

The first Polish born NFL Quarterback

Finally, I had a great opportunity to spend an evening with a couple of grad students (who are also a couple). They were both in my class. Marcin and Kasia took me to a brew pub with 180 different kinds of beer. I got to try several Polish brands that I have not had before. We spent almost four hours talking about life, travel and everything under the sun.

Still on my list is to visit is my kid’s school from last year and the American embassy office called American Corners.

End of the Semester

Today is the last day of finals and of the fall/winter semester. It began in October without me- and I have been doing catch-up for the past month.

Traditionally, University begins October 1st and ends the third week of January, with about 10 days for finals. Then the students gets a week of holiday. Then something called “second finals” (which I still really don’t quite get). Second finals is different from anything we do in our country. In Poland, a large percentage of your total course score is the final exam. However, if you fail it- you can have a chance to take it a second time. If you fail it the second time- you fail the entire course.

The Spring/summer term then begins February 14th.

Anyway, my classes and finals ended today. I crammed in three classes into a span of one month. So instead of the students going once or twice a week for a hour or so- they were with me everyday for several hours to complete all the required contact hours. It made for long days for me.

I finished up two of my three classes last week and did their grades. Then the last one finished today. All three were master’s classes (two statistics classes and one strategy). Today was the last day of my second statistics class. At the end of class the group surprised me with a very good bottle of Vodka.

Dr. G and the female grad students

And with the male grad students (Vodka in hand)

In addition, I had the opportunity again to speak to a group of doctors, nurses and other medical professionals who are getting a certificate in administration. Last weekend, I spent two days talking to them about the US health care system and how it compared to others systems of the world. Also, we discussed what are these reforms and reforms to the reforms about. They found the US system interesting. They all agree Poland needs to dramatically change their system- but not sure that the US is the best model to adapt (but they did like some aspects about it). I said this last year- you never realize how crazily organized our US health care system is until you have to explain it to a foreigner.

Polish students ask me about American students and vice versa. As with last year- I find the Polish students quite strong in general. In the US we don’t really talk much about the labor competition coming from the former Soviet bloc- as we tend to focus on China and India (with good reason). However, one thing about the Soviets- they put in place a rather strong educational system that is just getting stronger by these countries who adopted Capitalism 20 years ago (think engineer level math thinkers who can also market and strategize). They are strong analytical thinkers.

Also, as I mentioned in a blog last year- young University aged Poles (in their early to mid 20s) really have no concept of Communism. Those are stories that grandmother tells. A University student today was either born during or after the Berlin Wall and the Soviet Union collapsed- so they only really know a capitalist system (albeit a transitioning one). In addition, they are much more open to the world and tend to self identify themselves as “Europeans” (citizens of the EU) than strictly Poles. These skills and that mindset will go a long way with putting them on the world map.

Now Poland has a ways to go in its development (poor infrastructure is a really major issue in my opinion for Poland to grow). But I look forward to see that these students can do on the world stage in the coming years. This is one of the reasons I enjoy coming back.

I have two days left in Poland before returning home to the great white north of KC. During my remaining time I have some grading to do, some more friends to see and a bit of shopping left.

Torun

Although I have now lived in Poland for about a year cumulative, there are still many places I have yet to see. Poland is a great country that has the Baltic Sea on one end of the country, and high mountains on the other. It has officially been a country since 966.

About 2 hours south of Gdansk (between Gdansk and Warsaw) is a medieval city called Torun. Every time I hear “medieval city”, I get all history horny and have to go. Torun is probably most famous for being the birthplace of Copernicus (the guy who showed the earth revolved around the sun, not the other way around. The Catholic church was none too please with him).

Torun was also untouched my WWII (a rarity) so all of its medieval buildings are original. Torun is a place I really wanted to visit last year. That said, this is not really a place that my family would enjoy. After the third medieval city we went to (and we went to several)- they seemed to think all 1,000 year old buildings look alike.  So in deference to them- we did not make this trip last year.

I took the 3 hour train ride down on a Friday and had stayed at nice little 20 room hotel (the Petite Flower) right in the middle of Old Town. Torun has grown up over the years, the Old Town is still surrounded by the medieval fortification walls. But then new town has grown up on the outside. Great contrast of 700 year old buildings on the inside and modern 20 story office buildings on the outside of the walls.

The Petite Flower Hotel is the building in pink

                                                     
I arrived about noon and spotted a coffee shop right across the street, called Kona. I thought that was a little odd as Kona is a coffee term we associate with Hawaii. I went inside to get something and began my rather poor attempt at ordering in Polish. The gentleman at the counter (probably late 30s), immediately recognized me as an English speaker- and started speaking English. Now this is not overly odd. I get that all the time if the other person knows English. However, instead of speaking a European second language English (called Euro speak)- he broke out in perfect American English.

I quickly asked where he was from- he said born and raised in Boston. How fun. He said he met a Polish girl (it is still politically correct to refer to women as “girls” over here). She did not care for the US and wanted to return home. She must have been quite a girl- as he followed her to Poland (and now is his wife). Anyway, he opened an Island themed coffee house. Over the next couple of days I stopped in a couple of times just to chat and compare an American in Poland notes.

Kona Coast Cafe

I toured the house (now a museum) where Copernicus was born. Walked the streets to see all the old buildings and walls. I went to the old Cathedral that was built in the 1240s. Copernicus was baptized there in 1473. And Pope John Paul II said Mass their twice in the 90s. I also went to Mass there on Sunday. It was rather cold that morning and 13th Century churches do not have heat. The holy water (inside) was frozen solid.

Had a great french dinner (yes, a french restaurant, eaten by an American, in a Polish city, across from a Pacific island themed coffee house).

Woke up the next day and walked through several other of the old museums and buildings.

After getting in about 24 hours of good medieval history- I got back on the train and left for Gdansk.

Now for the slide show.

Copernicus House (now a museum)

St. John Torun Cathedral (built 1240)

Where Copernicus was baptized in 1473

At Cathedral- Kneeler and Chair used by JPII during his two masses

Statue of JPII in front

The leaning tower (and old guard house on the fortification walls)

Entrance to the old town

Fortification walls of old town

Town Center in the City Square

Is this one ass or two? You decide.

Me and Copernicus

Me and Copernicus in City Square

Bomba

Heard the best story when I was with our former landlord and current friend’s house the Draniewicz’s.

Last year our family lived in a house which the Draniewicz’s built on the end of their property.

70 years ago, that same property was the end of a German military airbase. This then became a commercial airbase until the early 1970s. So, you still see remnants of the old airport. In fact our neighborhood grocery store was made from a converted hanger.

During the process of building our house a couple of years ago, they were digging at the end of their property. A large WWII bomb (bomba in Polish) was found right near the corner where our house gate was located. It had probably been buried there for 70 years.

Once it was uncovered, Mariuez and Charles (our former landlord and friends) were observing. Mariuez who spent many years in the Polish military knew exactly what it was. His son Charles told me it was about 4 feet long- the type a plane would drop.

The Draniewicz’s then called the police who came out. Here was the funny part. The police looked at the bomba, and put yellow police tape around it. Then said the bomb squad would be out in 3 days to get it. Then left….

Keep in mind, this is now a large open hole with a 70 year old, four foot bomb sitting in it. It is no further than 20 yards from theirs and other people’s houses. But at least it had police tape...

Mariuez scared for not only his house and family- but any poor SOB who walked by, fell in and maybe detonated the bomb- started to call people he knew at the police station. He could not get the bomb squad there any quicker than 3 days- but they finally did bring over a patrol to watch the hole until the squad arrived.

It was on the news and Marieuz still had it recorded. They showed the hole, our former house (under construction) and the bomba in the ground- Marieuz was interviewed.

Charles also told me when they were putting in the new Amber Soccer Stadium- they found three old bombs buried there (I am sure they are still buried all over the country).

Mickey D's

Of course, McDonald’s is everywhere on the planet. I don’t think I have been anywhere in the world where there was not one within a mile or so.

Also, all McDonald’s look basically alike. Same fixtures, same hard plastic table and molded chairs. Ronald’s face is everywhere. Only the language of the signs are different. Otherwise once in a McDonald’s you would not know if you were in Kansas City, Australia or Poland. All very clean and friendly people. They all even have wi-fi and serve McDonald’s lattes.

The other thing about McDonald’s are the first several items on their menu are the same. Big Mac comes first, Quarter Pounder, etc. etc, even Happy Meal with a toy.

Although I am not a big fan of McDonald’s (or fast food)- no matter where I go in world I always walk into the local one. What interests me are the items at the bottom of the menu. These are usually specific to a country’s taste. In Denmark they had lots of different fish sandwiches at the bottom. In Hungary they had a pork patty sandwich. So, I am always on the look out for what different items a local McDonald’s has on their menu.

I have one here in my neighborhood. In fact, this is where Ben spent his 15th birthday last Oct (2009).

McDonald’s words are a universal language. Although each sandwich has its translated name (recall the scene in Pulp Fiction)- a Big Mac is a Big Mac everywhere.

I love going into the Polish McDonald’s. People go up to the counter and do their food order. Swish, swish, swish (that is what much of the Polish language sounds like in the my head)- swish, swish, swish, Big Mac, swish, swish, swish. And out comes a number 1.

But as I said each country has some of their own items. So, today I went into our local McDonald’s and found a new sandwich (I even ate one). It is called the Kanapka Zbojnicka (or swish, swish, swish).

Now the Kanapka Zbojnicka is an interesting McDonald’s offering.

You get a quarter pound burger, white provolone cheese, a thick hash brown potato patty, bacon, honey mustard sauce: all on a sun dried tomato and cheddar bun.

Not a bad sandwich. I did not even look at the fat or calorie content as this was international research.

But McDonald’s is not alone. Just next door is a new sign. “Starbucks coming soon”.

Vacation????

By now you all know my basic gig here in Poland. I teach about 4 weeks in January and another 3 weeks May, to complete some intensive sessions.

On Monday I learned that part of my contract (which I did not read as it was in Polish)- is that I also get vacation time for this. Huh? Actually, I get 26 days worth of it. What?

I was presented with a piece of paper from our secretary (who speaks no English), and she was translated through another colleague. She was explaining to me the 26 days and inquiring when was I planning on taking them.

First, I said- don’t worry about it- I really don’t want them or can use them. That was met with a frown. I apparently can’t refuse vacation and have to take the days. But my contract says I also have to teach all these days while I am here. A conundrum! Required vacation and required work at the same time.

In addition, I am suppose to turn into the University my plan for exactly when I was going to take each vacation day (write it down vacation day by vacation day).

I said, I can’t take vacation- I teach every day, then go home in Februrary. She said “I know”.

I also noticed on the paper that my vacation time is broken into parts of the school year. 8 days were for vacation in 2010 and 18 days were for 2011. As it is now January of 2011, I asked about the 2010 days. She said “yes, I was now late with my vacation and needed to hurry and take them”. Huh? But I teach every day and can’t take vacation- “I know", she said.

So we thought about it and quickly, and determined I would take my vacation days when I wasn’t working there (I guess that somewhat makes sense). So, I put on the form I would take vacation from March 1 to March 26 (after I am long gone)- done!

The form came back to me and (through a translator) I found out my form was rejected since March 1-26 also included Saturdays and Sundays in them- and I can’t count those for vacation. Cripes! I needed to list 26 school day vacation days, when I wasn't here (I guess that kinda makes sense).

So I wrote in the five weeks from March into April where I counted 26 school days as vacation. Done!

My form was rejected again and returned. It was explained you cannot take all your vacation in a single block of time. Ok I said, but I am not here anyway. “I know”. Still rejected.

Each time we went through this they had to rip up the form and print me a new one. So, at this point I am on my 4th vacation form- which I can’t take or need- but I have to have it written down.

I finally got all the rules down. You will be happy to know I am officially on Polish vacation from March 1st to 9th AND then again on April 4th-26th. Form was now approved and all administrators happy.

True story.

More International Teaching

As I mentioned in my last blog, I am back in Gdansk at the same University (Politechnika Gdanska) teaching for about a month http://www.zie.pg.gda.pl/. This was arranged as I was leaving last June. We agreed I would come back twice (January and May) to teach some classes over a short period of time.

A couple of differences this year- I am also teaching full time at Rockhurst and Fulbright is no longer paying me. This is truly a visiting professor gig. I even have a new title profesor wizytujący (Visiting Professor). You can see my faculty page- http://www.zie.pg.gda.pl/spis-pracownikow (I think you have to click on “G” and then my name).

This works out pretty well with Rockhurst’s schedule, as European Universities begin their fall terms in Oct and end in very late January. Then the spring term starts in February and ends at the end of July. Rockhurst’s terms end the first or second week of December and then the second term ends the first or second week of May. So in each case, I have about a month or so to do these things.

Scheduling is also tough- as my wife continues to remind me, we have children. There is that Christmas thing and we have two birthdays in January (Abbie and Trey’s). I missed Abbie’s birthday last year- as I was in Barcelona. I will likely miss it again next year- as I will be in Barcelona again (I will write about what we are doing in Barcelona at some other time). Anyway, Abbie was quite clear that this year I was to be home and pay my due homage to her birthday. Of course, who can say no to Abbie.

So, as I might have come to Gdansk right after New Years- I stayed until after Abbie’s birthday on the 7th. We went to her school for lunch. Took her to dinner. Gave her presents and otherwise had the world revolve around her. Then the next day, Saturday afternoon the 8th, I jumped on a plane for Poland.

Getting to Gdansk is straight forward- but long. It is 5,000 miles from door to door. You first go to Chicago, then get on a Polish airline (LOT) to the capital city of Warsaw (who would have thought a Polish airline would fly in and out of Chicago...). Then you go through EU customs, and hop a short flight north to Gdansk. About 15 hours of traveling and a 7 hour time change (we are in the Central European Time zone, CET, same as France, Germany, etc).

As noted, my friend Charles picked me up at the airport and took me to my new flat. Add travel time and time zone change- It was now Sunday afternoon.

I was scheduled to start teaching the next day.

Now, Politechnika basically has me teach the same classes I do in the States. I teach Strategy Management, Statistics, and International Business. A rather odd combination of classes- but that is me. The only other class that I teach in the States, but NOT at Politechnika is Managerial Economics. I don’t teach Managerial Economics (probably my real speciality) in Gdansk, as there are 26 other economists on faculty. So, they need me to teach those other classes.

This term, they asked if I would teach three classes over a one month period. Two sections of Statistics II and one section of Strategy. All semester long classes, crammed into 4 weeks.

So, my classes run back to back Monday, Tuesday and Wed from 3pm until 9pm. Then on Thursdays, I start at 8:15am and go until 9pm, with a couple hour break in the afternoon. In Poland, it is not unusual for students to have classes starting at 7:15am or going until 10:00pm. They truly go all day.

A typical day- I teach a group Strategy for a few hours, then they leave and 15 minutes later another group comes in for Statistics II, then they leave and third group comes in for Statistics II again. Rinse and repeat each day.

Long days, I get home about 10pm. But then I do not have to be back on campus until about 1:30 the next afternoons.

My classes are still very international in demographics. About half of my students are Polish. However, I also have Portuguese, French, Spanish, Chinese and I think a German. All are Master’s students. Of course, all classes are taught in English. At this level- the young Polish students are very, very fluent in English. Sometimes my slang or phrases throws them off however. I used the term “rule of thumb” in class- and no one had heard of that. So, I have to watch my phrases.

So that is my teaching week. But it is not all work and no play. Next posts will be on some of the fun stuff I get to do.

Did I ever leave?

Happy 2011! Yes, I am back in Poland again. Lisa has been bugging me to open my Poland blog again for this trip. I had not planned to- as I figured everyone had enough last year. After a several days she convinced me the world would be a better place with my adventures put to writing.

Now that I a committed blogger- I will backtrack a little.

I returned Gdansk Poland last Sunday, to same University that I left six months ago.

For those that knew I was going- I was usually asked the same questions. Here is my FAQ.

So, the first question- why am I back?

Well a few reasons. First, (other than the weather) I really liked it here. I liked the people, my friends, the students (well, most of them), and the program.

Secondly, I have a really long break for Christmas at Rockhurst- six weeks off (not to be confused with the week I get off in October, week off in March and then the entire summer). College faculty are said to work 24/7- that is 24 hours a week, 7 months a year. Now, while that sounds like a gift from God- I look for other challenges during my down time. To me- teaching overseas is the best of everything you can get. Someone pays you to travel all over the world. Lastly, the University in Poland has a need for someone to teach in my discipline in English.

So, before I left last June- we began discussing possibilities of returning for this academic year. Now my barrier was this full time (sort of) job I have at Rockhurst. Rockhurst is very flexible, but they do expect me to show up now and then. There are only two times during the year where 1) I am NOT teaching at Rockhurst AND 2) The the University in Gdansk IS teaching- that is January and May.

As mentioned, Rockhurst is quite flexible with international work. There are about three or four of us business professors who like to do University experiences overseas. Both our Dean and Chair believes this also adds to our credibility at Rockhurst (we really sold them on that one!).

Anyway- it seems to work out with timing.

For the next question- Did Lisa and the kids come with me? Short answer- Hell No! (that is not my hell no either). Lisa loved her trip and experience last year- and it is a gift we truly gave to our children. That said, I have strict rules not to ask her to leave the country again for 15 years. For some reason the trip was a lot of work for her.... I don’t get women! You pack a bag in the morning, and you leave for several weeks or months. What’s the big deal?

Then- How long am I staying this time? Well, about a month. I will be back the first week of February.

Next question- I am staying at the same place? No. We had lived in a rather large house (for Polish standards) and although I loved the house, I did not need the big space (although some days it was really small with the six of us living in it). But more importantly, our landlords (and friends) would not take our suggestion and turn the house into a Gartland museum once we left. Instead they rented it to someone else. So, I now have a flat (I love that word) near the University that is owned by our MBA Director (more on the flat in another post- just so I can use the word again).

What is it like to be back in Poland? Well- in many ways it feels as I did not leave. My friend Charles picked me up at the airport (he also took me to the airport when Ieft last June). I still had my European cell phone (that worked), my Gdansk tram/bus pass (that worked), my ATM card for my local Gdansk bank (that worked), even my minimal Polish language came back (although still minimal).

I arrived at the University on the first day, just expecting to work out of some corner or in the library (since I was only going to be here for a few weeks). But no, they had my office from last year set back up. My name was on the door. Even my same coffee cup from last year had been cleaned and placed back on my desk. The secretary had hung a new 2011 calendar for me and placed a marker on the correct date of my arrival.

I saw my University friends and exchanged hugs.

Then I went down to the University cafe and saw the same worker who always waited on me. She said, “you’re back”, “I guess you want an Americano” (the drink I ordered every day last year).

I guess word had spread I was back. Within 1 hour, two students were at my office door wanting to complain about the grade I had given them last year.

Finally, the thing that made me feel most welcome. About 2 months ago, I got several Rockhurst shirts that we give to either students, faculty or as promotional items. I sent my University friends in Gdansk a box of them. On my first day- everyone wore their Rockhurst shirt (even the Dean and Vice Deans).

Here are pictures of a few friends.

So that is the story of my arrival and first day. I have a few more posts to create to catch up.

If you received this by email- that is because you subscribed to my blog last year. If you want to unsubscribe- that is not advisable..... lord knows what you will miss.

Only 22 hours late

This is a rather rambling story of my helish trip home- so only start it if you have time.

The time has finally come to return to the US and my regular life. Lisa and the kids left a week ago- while I finished things up in Gdansk and then went to a conference in Denmark.

But the day has arrived to pack my bags and see what Olathe is like again.

My leaving was actually a protracted event. It began last Sunday with checking out of the house with our friends and landlords. They came over about 11am, walked through the house and gave it a thumbs up. Actually, as it is newly renovated house- our 4 kids could have really done some damage. Luckily and with the constant reminders from Lisa- the worse we had were hand print streaks on the walls going down the staircase. The Draniewicz’s invited me over for a coffee and we talked about them coming to the US. About 2:30- with a very, very heavy suitcase they all took me to the airport.

Arrival to Aalborg was fine- and my 5 day stay was nice. See my blog on that http://mylesgartland.blogspot.com/2010/06/side-trip.html

Thursday was my last evening in Europe after 10 months. My flight left at 6:30am, so I ordered a taxi for 5am. I planned to get to sleep early.

I forgot that Denmark was playing Japan in the World Cup on Thursday night, and the locals were in high spirit. Even though Denmark lost badly, it did not deter their spirits and they partied in the streets and at the apartment complex next door until all hours.

The alarm went off at 4:15 (I packed the previous night) and made it to my taxi at 5am. Ironically, when I got up- I saw that Lisa was still on Skpye (it was only 9:30p in Olathe, so I called and she said that she had just put Trey to bed).

As we drove down the street- there were still several footballer fans from the previous night’s party stumbling around the street. So, they had been at it for at least 10-12 hours.

With no traffic, we arrived at the airport in 15 minutes. My flight schedule was long, but straight forward. Aalborg to Copenhagen to Brussels to Chicago to Kansas City. 17 hours door to door.

Aalborg

They always tell you to get the the airport 2 hours early for an international flight. I had to get all my tickets in Aalborg, plus check my bags through to KC. So I arrived at 1:20 hours early. I walked into the terminal and the lights were not even on. There were a few people waiting in the dark, the only light coming in from the windows, waiting for the many desks to open. It was at least another 25 minutes before the first worker showed up. I had one bag (which was .2 kg under the weight limit). I also had a very heavy rolling back pack, plus my regular back pack. Now to check a second item is $50. But I decided that since the rolling backpack was so heavy and I had so many connections- it would be worth it. That proved to be good foresight... Of course, I had to go through security, take off my belt, shoes, scan my bags and the other usual things. I even had time for an espresso. The SAS airplane took off from Aalborg on time and without issue. Perfect beginning.

Copenhagen

After the 40 minute flight to Copenhagen- the issues began. I had 35 minutes before the next leg to Brussels took off. First, you arrive at a small side, terminal A, (for the local planes). Then you take a bus to one of the bigger terminals. First problem- I had no indication of what terminal my next flight was in. I finally found someone what terminal my flight left from. They said definitely terminal 2. As terminal 2 is 1/2 mile away- you have to take a bus. The buses only comes every 15 minutes (and I am on a really tight schedule). I wait and wait (one must have left just before I arrived). It finally came and I was off to terminal 2.

I walked in, and again could not find my SAS Air flight (15 minutes before it leaves). I went up to a desk, and she said this airline departs from terminal 3, not 2. Luckily, the distance between terminal 2 and 3 is not far- so I was able to quickly walk.

I arrived at terminal 3 and saw my flight- I also saw it was running 10 minutes late, so I was actually relieved. It said go to gate B2. Now, since I had to go outside to change terminals- I had to go through screening again. Shoes, belts, remove laptop, scan stuff all over again.

I run down to gate B2 only to see people with a dejected look leaving the gate and walking away. When I arrived- a sign said- “gate changed to D (yes D) 6. Way on the other side of the terminal. Plus the flight was delayed even more, another 20 minutes.

I got to Gate D2, only to sit down and hear that we have been moved to D4 (at least that was close). I also looked at the sign and the flight was delayed another hour.

Well, given all the delays- there was no way that I was going to make connection #3 in Brussels. The flight leaving Copenhagen was going to leave after my Brussels to Chicago connection was gone. I started to think about what to do. I got on the internet and looked at later Brussels flights to Chicago. There was only one more leaving that day. Brussels to Chicago via New Deli, India- 25 hours.

About that time, I hear my name being called over the intercom to “come to the desk”. The desk person tells me and 2 other who are also taking the Brussels to Chicago leg, “that we are probably not going to make it”. No shit!

He said we had to go to terminal 2 and talk to the transfer desk. Back to terminal 2.

Me and my two new BFF went to the transfer gate, and told them we were asked to report to here. Of course, the transfer gate had no idea why we were asked to go there, so they called the gate. They got off the phone and said “it looks like you will all miss your Brussels to Chicago flight”. No shit!

So he typed and typed and typed and found me a new route:

Copenhagen to Newark to Chicago to KC (eventually arriving 5 hours later than I was suppose to- but at least it was home).

The gate for our new flight was back in terminal 2: Gate C.

Back through the terminal and back through security. Off with the belt, shoes, laptop, scan this and that.

As Copenhagen was now by place where I was leaving the EU- me and my new BFFs had to also go through the passport control line. We arrived at that point only to find the line about 100 yards long, with 8 people across. It was hot and tightly packed. A man across from me passed out in line and hit his head one someone’s steel suitcase. He had to be taken away in a wheelchair. I would have helped out- but I did not want to lose my spot in line.

We finally get to passport control- and the guard doesn’t look at my picture, does not check my name, does not scan my passport and does not even ask any questions. He just puts in his obligatory stamp and I am off- what is that helping to prevent?

I get to my gate C40 (by now I have been in 3 terminals and Gate sections A, B, C & D) and was given a new boarding pass. As I enter the gate area- I am grabbed by the arm by an attendant and he says “Mr. Gartland, you have been randomly selected for an additional screening, please come to this cubicle”. So, off with the belt, shoes, out with laptop, screen my stuff, swipe my hands, and I am asked to turn ON all my electronic devices. Well, all that is in my backpack is electronic devices, so this takes a while. I even had to turn on my slide projector lecture pointer. Then I got a nice pat-down from a lady guard. Finally, I was allowed to enter the plane to Newark.

The Long Flight

When I booked this new flight with SAS in Copenhagen, I specifically was assured that I had an aisle seat. I asked twice. As I got on the plane, I saw that I was about to spend 8 hours in a middle aisle seat. I have a theory about this. There is a strong relationship between how many people you have to climb over and how often you have to pee. This works not only on airplanes, but in movie theaters and stadiums too. I wanted to time my trips to when the guy in the aisle seat got up to pee, then I would just follow him. However he was a pee camel. Never went the entire 8 hour flight- which made me have to go even more.

That said, I figured the worst was over, and what could go wrong in Newark?

Newark

I arrive in Newark at terminal B, get through passport control, recheck my bags through United Airlines to go from Chicago, then to KC. US Passport control asked me no questions and did not even notice I have been out of the country for 10 months, or ask where I have been and doing.

Now back in Copenhagen, SAS Air has booked me on United Flights to Chicago and to Kansas City (SAS is part of the Star Alliance, but does not run intra-US flights).

I have to leave terminal B and take the airport train to the United gates at terminal A (you need a train to go from terminal to terminal). My flight is on the departures board, but the gate is not listed yet. I have about 1.5 hours. So, I wait and wait. The flight stays on the board, but a gate is never assigned.

With about 45 minutes to go, I walk up to the United ticket booth and they are just posting a sign that the “Chicago flight is canceled. See a ticket agent”.

I went up to the agent and told her what occurred and gave her my travel reroute voucher from SAS Air that I received in Copenhagen. She said that United would only honor the voucher for the flight that was just canceled- and I needed to go back to the SAS ticketing to get another voucher. Plus she told me- there would be no more United flights to KC that night.

I asked where were the SAS Agents- she said “terminal B”.

I got back on the train and went back to terminal B and found the SAS agent. She said, well there is a Continental flight leaving in 30 minutes- if you hurry you might make it. She scribbled out a voucher. I asked where was the Continental flights. She said terminal C....Back on the train.

I get to Continental in Terminal C and the line for security was 100 people deep (and my flight was leaving in 20 minutes). I walked right past all 100 people (hearing them curse at me) and went right up to the security line and handed the agent my voucher. She said I could not get through with this voucher. I needed to exchange the voucher for a “real Continental ticket” upstairs. So I ran upstair to the Continental desk. It was 75 people deep- I walked right passed everyone (hearing them curse at me) and quickly told the ticket agent my story and asked if I could get a quick ticket. He looked at the voucher from SAS- and said, “she filled this out wrong, I cannot accept it. Plus, since you are within 30 minutes of the flight I can’t issue you a ticket anyway”. I asked if there was a later flight- he said, I had to go back to SAS and get another voucher.

Back to terminal B and my SAS agent. (by this time I am about in my panic attack mode).

I arrive back with same lady and SAS and told her the Continental person would not let me on with this voucher. She said, “I was afraid of that, and expected to see you again”. I asked calmly, well what’s next. She said she had looked at all available flights and nothing else was going to KC tonight. I would need to spend the night in New Jersey and try again tomorrow.

Now I might be writing this calmly, but that was certainly not my mood during this time. It was a complex mixture of utter anger and panic. I talked my self down and started to accept my fate. No sense in getting further rattled and either ending up in the ER or jail. Also, I have no cell phone (I still have a Polish SIM card in my phone- so I can’t call Lisa). I had to borrow a stranger’s phone- as Lisa did not know what was going on.

Th SAS lady found me a Saturday morning ticket (on American Airlines this time) and gives me a voucher to get a ticket from them. I said “where am I staying tonight and who is paying”. The only person I know in New Jersey is Tony Soprano. She said, “well since United is the one that canceled your flight- they should arrange for your stay. Just go back to terminal A.....”

I stopped her at that point and said (well I can’t repeat that...). Anyway she agreed to get me a hotel and SAS pay for it. She called and called and most hotels were booked. She finally got me a room at Hampton Inn. She wrote out a hotel voucher to Hampton Inn.

On my way out- I briefly mentioned that I wonder where I might get my checked bags tomorrow. I assumed I can just pick them up in KC- but what airline would have them, as I had not seen them in hours? (But I had been transferred to so many flights in the past hours). She said, “oh no- under new regulations if you are not on the flight then your bags are pulled, so they are still in NJ”. I asked, “then where are my bags in NJ”- she said “I don’t have that on my system”. She recommended I go back to the international terminal and ask them to see what airline my bags ended up on.

Back to the train to international. I go to the international baggage people and go through the entire story. I said I just wanted to know where I can pick up my bags. She looked and found they were still at United- back in terminal A. Back on the train to A.

I go to the United baggage people and tell them my story. Of course, he has no records of my bags- but I can actually see them behind him. So I ask if he could just turn around, he would not need his computer. He says I have to take them with me now since I am flying American in the morning.

I get my 100 lbs of bags and now need to get to the hotel. I ask a red cap where the hotel buses come- and he said “The P4 terminal stop- just get on the train......” so back on the train- this time with 100 lbs of bags.

I get on the Hampton Inn bus and take the 5 minute ride to the hotel.

Hampton Inn- Newark

I get to Hampton Inn and gave them my name and the hotel voucher that SAS gave me. He looked at it and went into the back office. He came back out and said that their hotel does not accept vouchers from this airline. He said I should go back to SAS at the airport and have them either give me cash for the room or set me up at another hotel. I said (well I can’t repeat that either)- then I just gave him my credit card and said “give me a room”.

I had been up and traveling for the better part of 24 hours by this point- and I am in New Jersey. I shower (of course, I tossed most of toiletries at the Aalborg hotel that morning before I left- since I have plenty at home and was expecting to be there that night).

To bed and try again tomorrow.

Newark Airport Part II

As my body is still recovering from the 7 hour time difference, I was up rather early. I went down and had the breakfast buffet. I paid my $109 for my room (SAS will hear from me later on this). Even though my flight did not leave Newark until 10:20a- I wanted to take no chances- so I left at 7:30a. I assumed the worst. Would American take my SAS voucher? But my biggest concern were my bags. My big suitcase was within .2kg of international flight weight limits- which means it was way over the domestic flight weight limit. Plus, I had already paid for my second bag to be checked too (but that was yesterday, and several different sets of airlines ago). I could see me needing to pay another hefty fee(s) to get my bags on. I had even left on all the baggages tags from yesterday to show all the places they had been- to maybe garner sympathy.

At the ticket desk, I was all ready with sad story and plead for my tickets and bags. Not only was there no line at American- she took my voucher, gave me my ticket and took all my bags with no questions asked. I was sitting in front of my gate with no bags, tickets in hand- two hours early. The flight took off on time. Newark was glad to get rid of me.

Chicago

My original worry had always been Chicago O’Hare (ORD). To me, ORD is Dante’s 5th ring of Hell. Nothing ever goes well there. Almost every problem I have ever had in my life flying occurred in or about ORD. Once we sat on the ORD tarmac for 2 hours so they could check pillows. To my delight, other than a 20 minute delay- we got off without issue and headed to KC (I was suppose to be on this flight route 22 hours ago).

It was my pleasure to see the family as I arrived in Kansas City. Although it had only been a week since I said goodbye to them in Gdansk- it felt like a month. Good to be home- only 22 hours late.

Conclusion

So about 40 hours door to door. Aalborg to Olathe.

Although I have heard worse stories- this was the most hassle I have ever gone through in travel. As you read Lisa’s blog last week- she had an adventure (albeit a very different one) getting home too. That said, the right travel nightmare happened to the right people. Lisa could have never navigated all those back and forth, ticket counters, security checks and hotel with all the kids. I could not have handled the barfing, the kids, lines, the kids etc.

Finally, I must ask what rational person would work at one of these airline customer service centers? Cleaning Johnny-on-the-Spots must be a more enjoyable job. These people take the brunt of all the airline stupidity that occurs. Every time I was in line at one of these places (and boy was I at several)- everyone in front of me and everyone behind me were about ready to explode due to their own personal travel hell.

A side trip

Lisa left Poland last Friday (if you have not read her blog on traveling adventure- is it worth it) http://anamericanhouseholdinpoland.blogspot.com/2010/06/long-trip-home.html

I had to finish up some things, plus I was involved in a conference at the University- so I did not leave Poland until Sunday.

Also, Lisa does not like her and I to take the same flight (same policy as the President and Vice President; guess which one I am).

However, I still have grant money left and one of my favorite conferences was this week. So, when I left Poland, I went further north to Aalborg Denmark.

I am attending the International Schumpeter Society Conference (aren’t you sorry you missed it?). It is where 300 of the world’s top evolutionary economists (and me) come together to talk our trade and research. Now, I would typically be attending this conference anyway (even coming from the States for it)-and since it was just an extra few days and an hour plane ride, I stayed around Europe. This had been planned before I even came to Poland.

As I mentioned before, Denmark is one of my favorite countries in the world. This is my 5th or 6th trip here since 2004. It is particularly nice in the summer. Although I have been to Denmark many times- this is my first trip to Aalborg. It is a rather small city, about 100,000 people- with a big University.

Aalborg is rather far north, further north than Gdansk, Copenhagen and even Edinburgh Scotland- so this is probably the furthest north I have been. The City of Aalborg is about as close to Norway as it is Copenhagen. Which also means the sun is up even longer. It starts to rise about 3:30am, but does not set until about 11pm.

I arrived in Aalborg on Sunday night and the conference started Monday. But by this time the family had been back in Kansas 48 hours.

Another reason Lisa was glad I went to this conference during her first week back- was I would “just get in the way” to getting things correctly back in order. I accept that.

The conference was good and I got to see some people I wanted. The major academic book publishers were there selling the latest editions (we use to be able to get these for free- but times have changed. I only bought two). However, we failed to solved any of the world’s problems (that will be next year). It ended Wednesday night and for all practical purposes I should have returned home on Thursday. However, oddly enough traveling on a Thursday was several hundred dollars more expensive than on a Friday. And when your one way ticket already costs over $1,000- that is significant.

So instead, I spent Thursday catching up on some work and I took a nice walk through this beautiful city. It is a typical Denmark city (Middle Age structures and modern art). It sits on a long fjord (what a cool word).

My cab picks me up at 5am for a 6:30 flight and then back to the States for the first time since September. I need to hurry home get in line for one of those new iphones!

I will blog on my 17 hour trip home this weekend. But lets just say I travel Aalborg-Copenhagen-Brussels-Chicago-Kansas City.

 Bridge across the fjord, with the span open to let through some sail boats

Row of old style Denmark houses

Nice Architecture

Modern Art of a homeless woman sleeping in a cardboard box (in bronze). Need Martin and Donna to explain this one to me.

More great Denmark houses and buildings

Poles going to the Polls

Today is the special Presidential Election for Poland. It is the first Sunday after a 60 day period from when the former President was killed in a plane crash.

For those of your who think it is unusual to have a Presidential election in a Sunday- it is actually the norm in many parts of the world.

Polls are open for the Poles until 8pm.

Now, this was to be an election year anyway- however the election had to be moved up by several months due to the death of President Lech Kaczynski.

Kaczynski was a member of the Law and Justice Party- a quite far right of center (very conservative party), who is rather nationalistic. He was brought into office promising returning Poland to its greatest and individuality; and being hesitant about full EU integration. But based on the polls prior to his death- he had lost most of his momentum. Even before his death, it was predicted he would not be reelected.

So with his death, the Law and Justice Party needed a new candidate. So, Kaczynski’s identical twin brother (Jaroslaw Kaczynski) took his place in the election (yes, identical twin). Truth is always stranger than fiction.

There are 10 people running for President today, but 8 are from rather small parties.

The other major party in the election is the Civic Platform Party. The are right of center too- but more Eurocentric and interested in globalization and foreign policy. Although they are “right of center” too- they are not near as conservative as the Law and Justice Party. The Civic Platform Party already controls Parliament, and Poland’s Prime Minister (Donald Tusk) is from the Civic Platform Party.

House Speaker Bronislaw Komorowski from the Civic Platform Party was appointed “acting President” when Kaczynski died. Komorowski is also their Presidential candidate today.

Based on the polls (of Poles)- Komorowski is the favorite to win.

The hot issues in Poland are: Poland’s integration into the EU. Polish troops in Afghanistan (Poland have had troops fighting along with the US soldiers since the conflict began. Like in the US, some of the populace is growing tired of the endless war). And finally, the economy: including more privatization of industry and less spending on social programs.

Poland’s political suture is different from the US- as they have both a President and a Prime Minister. Most executive power in Poland rests in the hands of the Prime Minister and Cabinet (who the Prime Minister appoints). But the President serves as commander-in-chief of the armed forces and can veto laws, giving him/her significant influence.

But the way I always viewed it- it seemed as if the Prime Minister (Tusk) had the most power- and the President was just either a friend or a barrier to the PM. But the President is the official “face” of the country.

As the President and Prime Minister had been from different parties; and the two did not like each other- things sometimes moved slowly. However, if Komorowski wins, Civic Platform will control everything.

Although the US nor EU make any official statement- from their interests, a Civic Platform win would likley be their preference.

You might ask where is the famous Solidarity Party of Lech Walesa? Well, as with many groups- it is much easier to oppose than to rule. Solidarity will forever be known as the political group that broke Communism, and the first group democratically elected in Poland’s in modern history. But Walesa and Solidarity only made it through one election. During their short rein, there was so much political in-fighting on how to move forward- that Solidarity (as a political party) disbanded and its members all went left, right and center (including forming the two parties mentioned above). Many of the iconic leaders don’t even speak to each other any more. Ironic.

Also, by Polish law, the Presidential winner has to receive 50% or more of the vote. With 10 people running (even if the small groups get just 1 or 2 percent)- 50% is hard to accomplish. So, in the event no one wins by 50% or greater- a run off election is held in 2 weeks by the top two vote getters (who will likely be Komorowski & Kaczynski).

So, not only were we here for the terrible tragedy of the death of Lech Kaczynski. We were able to see a Presidential election cycle.

PS- It is not Father’s Day here. They celebrate Father’s Day on the 26th.

My final week at Polytechnika

Now as I am on the back end of my journey, I realize these 10 months have flown by. 

As with any Professor, the first and last week of school are the busiest. No exception here. 

Starting with last Saturday, the 12th- I did my second lecture to the group of medical professionals (physicians, nurses, dentists, etc)- whom most do not speak any English. So as with last time a translator was brought in. I blogged about my first experience lecturing while using an translator a few weeks ago. As with last time, the translator did a great job- but frankly the class dynamic changes quite a bit when everything is filtered through a third party. That said, this was a great group who have an interesting health care road ahead of them. Frankly, I wish we could really spend some time together, as I would like to learn their views of how their health system will evolve. Interestingly however, we in the US have a capitalistic system but we are talking about more government involvement. Here, they have all government involvement- but see a great need for more capitalism in health care. No one has the answer.

Besides these side lectures I have been doing; I had five classes this semester with about 110 total students. That is almost twice my normal teaching load at home (Rockhurst). But I like teaching (most days) and enjoyed the variety. My five classes were spread over many of the school’s different business programs. So I had undergrads, graduate students, part-time students, and executive students. With these 110 students- they are not just Poles. They are kids from three different continents and multiple countries. 

So the week was full of giving final exams and then grading them. The same with final cases. Basically every night this week was dedicated to grading. I admittedly changed some of my final test formats to make them a little easier to grade (yes, professors do that); as I had to get so many done in a short time frame. I also started to give some exams last week.

During all of this semester ending stuff were two other activities. First, we are getting the house ready to move out. Figuring what to bring home and what to toss. Making sure we minimized the bags we would have to check (and thus have to pay extra- a change made by the airlines since we came over). Secondly, our school hosted an international conference on entrepreneurship; of which I have been involved.

By Wednesday afternoon, I had all exams done and calculated final grades for all the classes. 

This next process is a cultural difference. In Poland (and elsewhere in Europe) the students come to your office to receive their final grade in person (recall I have 110 students). So starting Wednesday, I began holding court for the students. 

They bring with them a journal called an Indek. This is a book where all their grades are kept for all their classes during their entire schooling tenure. So, it is basically a book of grades. I have to sign my page in their book (they keep the book). Then they give me a piece of paper that is generated by the school’s office for me to record their grade. They take the signed piece of paper back to the school's office. 

Their grades are numeric. 2 though a 5. 2 is a failing grade and a 5 is top. They also add pluses to the numbers. So you can get a 4+ (meaning better than a 4, but not quite a 5). When you think about it however, it is really not much different than our letter and plus system. B, B+, A, etc. 

Some students were visibly shaken that they passed (which I understand). Some were visibly shaken because they failed. This always surprises me, that a student is “surprised” that they failed. You should always know you are going to fail. 

Of course then comes the pleading and some sad story from the students who received a failing or low grade (universal in all cultures). Now they see me as the old-wise professor- they don’t realize I was once a student and did the same pleading and told the same sad stories- so I rarely buy them. 

Some students plead that if they only had a few more points, they could move up a from one grade to another. Sometimes I give-in on these- particularly good kids who only missed the next grade level by a 1/10 of a point. 

I only had one extreme indecent- a student got so agitated with me when I did not pass him, he came back the next day to debate again. I really did review his case to make sure I did not make an error. After I determined he was not even close to passing, he got so agitated and began accusing me of all kinds of things. I finally had to physically escort him out of my office. Given the horrible things that now happen at schools all over the world- it always worries Lisa when I get a student really agitated. 

Now, after I meet and sign the paperwork for all the students- the grade process is only half over. Then the school’s office gives me a list of all my classes and all my students. I have to write in all 110 grades on these sheets (using a pen) and sign each one. Then, to add a little technology- they give me a USB pen drive which has a database version of these lists, that I just did by hand. I have to type in the 110 grades into the database, hit save, and give everything back to the office. 

So, I have recorded each grade 4 times for each student, in 4 different places- what is done with all of these I have no idea. 

This was basically a 4 day process of meeting with students, and signing everything. I even went in on Saturday- as we have a weekend group of students who needed to meet with me. (But they are all good kids and I really enjoy them, so no complaints other than the paperwork). 

Now back to the conference. As I mentioned, our school hosts a bi-annual conference on Entrepreneurship. It is a small 2 day conference bringing in people mostly form central and east Europe. But we had some from as far as South Africa and South Korea. It was held Thursday and Friday.

I had worked reviewing some of the submissions prior to the conference. Then I chaired two of the sessions (meaning I introduced each speaker and kept track of time, and otherwise sit there on stage and look pretty). I had planned to present a paper myself- but just got lazy and never wrote one (that has been a bad habit lately that I need to fix). 

As with all conferences- the best part are the coffee breaks, lunches and dinners where you get to meet and talk to people. You always make your best contacts at these. I met several nice people.

In fact, on Friday night, after the conference was over, I had dinner with our Vice Dean and two others from the conference at her home. One was from Germany and one was from France. A very nice multinational dinner. 

After I met with students on Saturday, this was to be my last time on campus for this trip. So I cleaned out my desk, collected my belongings and said “so long” to my work home for the last year. I will miss the people and the place. It has been a great adventure.

Our local concentation camp

Earlier this week, Ben and I traveled to Stutthof, the WW2 concentration camp for the Gdansk area. It holds a few special designations. It was the first concentration camp to be set up (2-September 1939) and the last to be liberated (9-May-1945). During those years, 85,000 died on its grounds.

There is a big memorial at the end of the camp which reminds everyone that this camp was “built by people, for people”. So keep that in mind as you read my details.

As noted in my previous blogs, Gdansk holds the distinction of receiving the first shots of WWII (1-September 1939). The Nazis quickly invaded the city and needed a place to hold their political (Polish) prisoners. Most of the prisoners were not military, but rather community leaders like priests and teachers.

Stutthof Concentration camp is located about 30 KM outside of Gdansk, but it takes an hour to get there on a bus. It is literally in the middle of the woods. Beginning on the night of September 1st 1939, anyone who the Nazi’s felt would be a threat to them were either shot on site or sent to Stutthof. Over 110,000 people were sent to Stutthof during the war years. Many from Gdansk and its surrounding area.

I have learned something new as I have visited a few WWII camps. First is the difference between a concentration camp and an extermination camp. A concentration camp is built as a prison or work camp. An extermination camp is where people (i.e. Jews) were sent for the sole purpose of being put directly to death. At the height of the war, Central and Eastern Europe were dotted with both concentration and extermination camps. Most were on Polish soil, and most we have never heard of.

My family and I visited the very famous Auschwitz-Berkinow back in the fall. Auschwitz, particularly in its later years, functioned mainly as an extermination camp. Meaning as people came off the train- they were immediately marched from the train platform directly into the gas chamber. Millions died at Auschwitz, many living less than a day after they arrived at the camp.

Stutthof was a little different. It was set up to hold prisoners and have them conduct work for German industry. So, most who came to Stutthof were sent to be held and worked- not necessarily immediately exterminated. Now, there was an exception. Stutthof also had gas chambers (like Auschwitz). If a prisoner was a mother with children, pregnant, or old or weak- they were of no use to the Germans and were sent right from the train to the gas chambers. Others deemed strong would be put to work. Stutthof’s large death toll was largely came from working people to death, or death by the elements or disease.

We were told the story about how word began to spread about what was occurring to the people being taken to these small brick buildings (the gas chambers)- so the prisoners started to resist. With old ladies- they were told they had jobs in the next town as seamstresses. The old ladies happily got on the train for their job. The train would circle the camp twice and the tracks eventually went right into a modified gas chamber. They were gassed while sitting on the train. (They had a couple of the old train cars still at the camp).

Train car used for the gassing

Working conditions were brutal. They worked 12 hours per day M-Sa and 8 hours on Sunday and holidays. The work was very physical. For example, they would have to cut down trees, then instead of having mules to pull the heavy carts- they used the prisoners as the mules. Falling on the job, getting sick, or not working fast enough would earn you a beating on the “billy”. It was administered in public, before dinner. Many died during the beatings. However if a prisoner died during the beating- the Nazi SS guard would still continue to carry out all the strokes sentenced.

This is "billy"

People slept on the floor on blankets. The blankets sat on hay, which was infested with mites, lice and all kinds of vermin. So, as you can imagine all prisoners were also infested. There was usually not enough room for everyone to lay down at the same time- so they would take turns sleeping.  As many died from disease as from work or murder. Typhus was a major epidemic. Many were buried, but as 85,000 died at this somewhat small camp- they began to use the infamous crematoria and cremated. The crematoria survives to this day.

Given the hard work and brutal expectations- prisoners were barely keep alive. No heat and little food. They were given about 800 calories a day; a fraction for a normal person to survive. Although the camp was included in the Jewish final solution- and did have Jews- it was never set up to do the mass exterminations like Auschwitz. That said, a fare share of Jews did die at the camp. However, most of its prisoners were non-Jewish Poles.

Ironically, as you enter the front area of the camp you see this big beautiful house. It was for the Nazi Camp Commander. He lived there with his family. They told us his kids played in the yard and the wife cooked and hung laundry- like a normal family- while all this brutality was occurring less than 100 yards behind them.

As mentioned, prominent members of Gdansk society were held; including the pastor, Bronisław Komorowski, from the church we have been attending this year in our neighborhood. He was taken from his church on Sept 2nd, and later executed. A memorial stands at our church- and he even has a memorial at the Stutthof camp along with the other priests and nuns murdered.

As the Russians started to get close to the camp in 1945- the Nazi’s knew they needed to retreat, but they decided the prisoners had to go with them. Although most were frail- they were expected to walk from the Stutthof camp and retreat into Germany with the Nazis. If the labor did not kill them, the walk did.

After the war, a number of the victims that had been buried (including Bronisław Komorowski) were exummed and reburied in a special cemetary that is only 50 yards from our front door. The headstones each have the vicitims name and "Murdered at Stutthof Camp".

I have now been to several concentration and extermination camps. Although the stories really do not change- I am still always surprised and numb when I hear them and see the physical reminders. So the message at the end of the camp is the strongest. How could people build and operate this to inflict on other people?

Some other photos of the camp.

Chickens now control the railroad tracks leading into the camp.

One of the Gas Chambers. The Guard would climb on the roof and drop in the Zyklon B gas pellets.

The Death Gate- the front entrance to the camp. People who walked in usually knew this was the last place they would see. 

A recreation of the living quarters for the prisoners.

Cemetery right near our house (50 yards) where many of the Stutthof victims were reburied after the war.